Another no start...

[maytag]

Not in a happy place.

Cheer up! It could be worse.... you could be working on an Opel!

[So Cal Mark]

lack of fuel would explain the lack of "pop". How long did the injectors sit around while the engine was being rebuilt? Are you sure there is fuel to the rail?

[Divers]

Mark,

Had the injectors cleaned by oki injectors as part of the project.

As far as your question....I am not sure. I disconnected the inlet line and it had pressure. Should I remove the return line and see if I have a faulty regulator?

[Divers]

Checked timing this morning. ALL the alignment marks are within reason (not off enough to cause no start). Pulled #1 plug and can see #1 cylinder TDC. Now I am not sure if this is TDC on compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke? Just how would I know that (other than pulling off the exhaust cam cover and looking at the lobes...).

Going pull the outlet side of the fuel pressure regulator tonight...although I would have thought oki injectors would have checked this when they did my injector service.

Robert

[maytag]

Checked timing this morning. ALL the alignment marks are within reason (not off enough to cause no start). Pulled #1 plug and can see #1 cylinder TDC. Now I am not sure if this is TDC on compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke? Just how would I know that (other than pulling off the exhaust cam cover and looking at the lobes...).

Robert

Cam position is the only way to know. now, of course, if your timing marks are correct, and they are all lined-up, then you know that you are on the compression stroke of #4. I, perosnally, think it is unlikely that your marks are wrong on the cam gears. Mark says' he's seen this, so it can't be ruled-out. HOWEVER: what seems more reasonable to me would be the adjustable gears were assembled (the two parts to each other) way out of range. if that were the case, the marks would all line up, but your cams would be in the wrong place. enough for a no-start? i dunno. more likely you'd get it to start but would run crapp-ily. (i think I just made-up that word)

Chase the fuel thing a little, 'til you KNOW you've got fuel in the cylinder.

[Divers]

Maytag -

Is my thinking correct that an easy way to confirm cam's is to take the exhaust cam cover off and check the lobe position? I should find the #4 valve closed with the #1 lobe opening the exhaust valve?

Since the valve are not "crashing" into each other...if the exhaust cam is correct would that no infer that the intake cam timing is correct (or is this a stretch). I have oversized intake and exhaust valves so there is not much room at all.

My brother in law has me compression tester or I would have done with already. I cannot get it till this weekend, so I am ruling out everything else.

[maytag]

if your piston is at TDC, then both valves are closed. #1exhaust just closed, #1 intake is about to open.
eyeballing them is fine for knowing you're in the general vicinity. nowhere near good enough for maximizing all the $ and parts you've tossed at this motor.

But again, chase that fuel thing first. a compression check is still a good idea.

Once you get 'er running; it is still possible to index the cams on the assembled motor. It's just a PITA. We'll help ya get through that.
but first things first.

[Divers]

Thanks Maytag!

I get this damn thing actually running I am going to have a beer and then drive to a performance engine shop and say...

Here....tune this

What's funny is that I have done SOME this stuff before (not DOHC) and really cannot figure where I went wrong. I was hoping for an electrical problem since I really can fix those in my sleep especially with Brad's wiring diagrams. But, as I had cleaned and checked every wire when I had things apart the chance of electrical was slim. I had a 12v power supply hooked up to check wiring when I had the dash off.

Mark's idea of fuel really has merit. I had only checked for inlet pressure. I know the cold start valve injector is firing, so to make my life easier I am just going to remove it and put into a container and try to start the engine. If gas comes out I will call it good with fuel in the rail....not the best since I still will not know pressure, but it should suffice.

[majicwrench]

Read thru this quickly......have you pissed a little fuel in to see if it fires?? Pull some big hose off intake and put some fuel in there. Or pull plugs, piss a tiny bit in each cylinder, put plugs back in, crank.
Not sure if I saw where you actually verified spark at plugs, but like I said, read fast.
keith

[Kevin1]

A shot of starter fluid will confirm if lack of fuel is the problem.

[Divers]

This is a brand spankin new engine....I am hesitant to go "old school" already

Robert

[majicwrench]

Nothin old school here. Need to figure out what is missing. THis is not rocket science.

[76was124]

Did you verify cold start injector is working? Should be first source of fuel before each port's injector fires.

[Divers]

Yep....noid light said getting signal. New cold start valve.

I ran thru Marks initial adjustment of the dist. Now when I crank the engine, I hear a sputter with each revolution?

[majicwrench]

OK, I'l be done after this but DO YOU HAVE FUEL? Piss some in , see if it goes vroom. Starting fluid, something.
Good luck.
Keith