Another no start...

[Divers]

So...thought I was getting somewhere.

After a total rebuild of engine on an 81 FI cannot get started.

Engine cranks
Distributorless ignition LED flashes as car is cranked. How do I check that the plugs are actually getting spark?
Fuel lines are pressurized..just replaced fuel pump and did check for line pressure. I propped the afm flange open to insure the double relay keeps the pump running.

So...spark and fuel but no boom! Was not expected smooth idle, but engine start would have been nice. I am reading Brads novels at this time.

[maytag]

I would let Mark tell you how to trouble-shoot the ignition, since the instruction manual was FULL of "don't do this" with everything I would tell you to do to check it. (as I recall, there's also a troubleshooting section at the back of the manual?)

I assume you've checked and re-checked your cam-timing? Have you done a compression-check?

you know the old saying (well, I say it all the time... but I don;t know how old it is ) "if it's got fuel, and it's got spark, and it get's 'em both at the right time, it'll run."

[Divers]

Maytag,

The only troubleshooting in the manual is to make sure the LED flashes...which is does.

This should be easy...gas + spark = boom.

Maybe bad gas? It was a year old but I added a couple gallons of fresh...original gas had stabilizer added.

[maytag]

gimme a minute.... lookin' for my manual. could swear there was a troubleshooting page. (could be mine is different than yours)

[Divers]

Gonna slow down...just overheated my brand new starter!

Plugs are gapped at .045 which I thought was wide, but is what the paperwork stated.

[maytag]

yeah, you're right, not much there.


so, remind us (since this is a new thread) what your car is, and in a nutshell, what you've already done.

[Divers]

New engine/everything rebuilt.

Fuel injected car. Nothing I did SHOULD stop it from running...does not even sputter. Gonna have to go back to basics. Timing was good (close enough, but even if off should not cause no start).

Going to have to see if the injectors are firing...maybe that side of the double relay is not working? Mmaybe pull out the cold start injector for a start.

Stumped at this point.

[BEEK]

are you setting your timing at top dead center to fire cylinder #4?

[rlux4]

Assuming you have adequate compression: (To get the max. compression your valves have to be timed correctly).
For an engine to run you need (1) Spark. it has be at the correct moment, ie. ignition timing. (2) Fuel. On our FI cars it needs to be in the correct pressure range, and the injectors need to be pulsing.
If you have these three things your car will run.
The old school way to check whether or not you're getting spark at plug is to pull one, ground the threads on the block and crank the engine. You should hear a "snap!" and see a good spark. If you had a running engine you could put a timing light on each plug wire and it should flash.
Ron

[Divers]

Randy....of course now I question everything! But, I believe 4 was TDC....Of course...could have been 1. I really dont think so since my cams were set correctly. Confused a bit here and need more research. I am going to buy a noid light.

[Europa]

Noid light is a good idea. However, if the injectors are suspect and your cold start valve works, shouldn't the car start and run for at least a few seconds. Do you have the FI troubleshooting guide?

[Divers]

I have a copy of brads FI documents. Once I get a noid light things will be better and a 300 ohm resistor for that damn sensor in the T (just in case).

After a major engine job like I just did....its PROBABLY not the compression....could be timing (maybe). Grounds for the injectors are good. More than likely something easy and stupid I did not hook up correctly. Even if the timing was 180degrees out (#1 TDC instead of #4) I would think it would still try to ignite. With all the dash work I did, could be the ECU connector is not seated...O'Well.....live and learn.

Robert

[maytag]

From my phone...
If i understand correctly, your new ignition hits on every revolution, not every-other, so you can't be 180-out.
Compression check would show any number of things which could easily have been missassembled on the rebuild.

[Divers]

Maytag....correct.

I will check electrical first then break out the compression tester.

[Divers]

Went and bought a noid light. Hooked up to injector #1 and it flashes just fine.

So....have gas....have injectors working.....spark? Gotta figure out how to test the distributorless ignition for actually spark......

Timing - just don't figure this to be and issue. Allison's cams were installed with Millers adjustable wheels. I lined up the holes in the wheels with the tab on the cam housing. Just typing outloud here...but if the exhaust AND intake were 180 degrees out..... They would both have to be 180 out since I checked that the valves don't crash into each other before I installed the head. The cylinder was TDC and the crank pulley aligned at the top mark.

I guess I need to hook up the compression tester tonight.

Any other thoughts?