Idle Shutoff Solenoid Location

[DMECMAnderson]

I'm getting a battery charge indicator with the key in the off position in my 81 fiat spider. I tried removing fuse 1 which should isolate the light but it is still on. I noticed that one side also goes to the Idle shutoff solenoid (05100). Where is that part in a 81 Spider?

Dave

[DMECMAnderson]

OK this looks to be a part for a carberator, not a FI system like I have Back to tracing wires...

[So Cal Mark]

a bad diode in the alternator can cause that. try uplugging the alt and see if the light goes out

[DMECMAnderson]

Thanks Mark. I recently replaced the regulator in the alternator for that same problem. This one appears to be different. When I disconnect the Blue and Black wire from the INT connection on the ignition switch, the light goes out. Seems to me that I've got a wiring SNAFU somewhere.... I've recently replaced the ignition switch with a new one. I found a replacement for just the electrical switch on the back of the assembly and replaced that. The blue and black wire appears to be unswitched power, that controls the lights etc. In my previous switch the owner had tied this to a switched power such that when you turned off the card the lights were off, so the Blue and Black wire was switched instead of unswitched...

Are the diodes you referred to part of the regulator assembly?

[So Cal Mark]

the diode trio is in the alt, not the regulator. Normally, the lights were switched in the Spider so that they would turn off with the ign switch even if the light switch was on

[DMECMAnderson]

Clearly I'm misreading the electrical schematic... The schematic indicates the INT portion of the switch is common to the 30 amp (brown) wire which is the voltage input from the starter motor connection. Each time I test the switch with an Ohm meter there is a dead short between the 30 amp terminal and the INT terminal independent of the position of the key.

In the orginal switch the Blue and Black wire that appears to provide power to the lights (and other accessories) is shown on the INT. I can wire the lighting to the same contact as the coil (pink wire) which would make that a switched power connection, but I'm concerned about running to many amps through that contact and having my other problem ("refer to Headllights Killing Engine). That problem was cured by switching to a new Ignition switch that I got from Bayless. I was less than satlsifed with the quality of that ignition switch, it actually broke trying to get the thing back out. So I found a source for the actual electrical component of the ignition. This switch "looks" identical and seens to work as indicated in the schematic.

Am I just missing something obvious?

[DMECMAnderson]

I guess I've had that "aha" moment. After carefully studying the schematics, and tearing apart my old ignition switch, I have determined my fundemental problem. Mark was right (as usual) the ignition switch should be disconnecting the INT from the 30 amp input voltage. The circuit is clear that the battery would just light the charging light, as I am clearly seeing.

The problem is that my "new" switch is for an older car probably without the ignition switch steering locking mechanism required in the late 70's early 80's. The "new" switch does disconnect all the power sources but at a lower rotation angle than what is required for the newer generation ignition switches. Without getting into a lot of details there is a plastic "cam" on the back of the switch that controls push buttons that engage/disengage various portions of the switch as you rotate the key. Those cams differ depending on if you have a steering locking mechansim or not SInce I was careful, I can attempt to rebuild a switch from the "new" and original parts. But I've got to find some pretty skinny screws to replace the long rivets holding the switch together...

I could simply wire the blue/black wire into the pink connection, but then all the 12v power is running through 1/2 of the switch and 1/2 of the wiring from the battery. That will cause (as I found out with my last switch) something else to heat up, drop the voltage to the coil and I get a call from my 17 year old daughter that see needs me to come pick up the car again.

I'll let you know if I'm sucessful in my rebuild.

[So Cal Mark]

we're doing a ign conversion on pintopowers Spider now, just using the ign switch to turn on a master relay that will activate everything in the Run or On position. The relay only draws 1 amp, so the theory is that the switch will last much longer

[DMECMAnderson]

Mark, interesting... Where did you find the 30amp 12V relays? Are these commonly available in an autoparts store? I assume that you are only running the switched ignition and acc power through the relays not the momentary contacts for the starter motor. Is that right?

[So Cal Mark]

yes, the starter will still run through the ign switch. We're using what looks like a Ford solenoid, only it's rated for continuous duty. Any parts store should carry it, they've been used with trailers for years.

[DMECMAnderson]

I built a ignition switch from 1/2 of the new and 1/2 of the original switch. Car runs good, no hot connections anymore!

[DMECMAnderson]

Mark,

The new switch started to act up too. I finally decided to convert to a relay based ignition as well. Here is the schematic that I ended up with. Found the parts in a supply catalog (like Grainger).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14201527@N04/2584166424/