Brake overhaul

EBmez · Post by **EBmez** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:18 am

I took my 1979 Spider for new tires and brake pads and the report came back that it needs a complete brake overhaul - pads, rotors, calipers and hoses - for all four wheels. Although I've not really done pads and rotors before, with the help of friends this should not be too difficult. For the calipers, I'm hoping to be able to find a guide online (if someone has a link or two, I'm not going to turn it away!).

My big question is the hoses. A friend of mine told me that on newer cars (typically from sometime in the 80s), the hose is only a short length to the steel hose, but I'm wondering if anyone can help out with whether this is the same on '79 124s. I'm wondering how big a job this is going to be. I was quoted around $1500 for the work (from a major tire and brake chain), but this seemed excessive ($1000 in parts, $500 in labor). I called Advance Auto (in the US) and just the parts totalled just under $500, so I'm hoping that this is something I can do with just sweat and elbow grease (preferably no blood or tears).

Also, I have no lift and space for blocks/jacks is limited. Ultimately, I'm hoping I don't have to really get under the car, and most of the work can be done just in the wheel well.

Any input is much appreciated!

azruss · Post by **azruss** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:43 am

try going to the mirafiori website and see if they have anything on caliper rebuilds. This is not rocket science but has lots of labor involved due to difficult fittings to loosen and stuck pistons. you have 5 lengths of rubber hose and they should be replaced. they are available from the usual vendors. Some of the guys have found replacement calipers from local auto parts stores. BAP, Autozone, Pep Boys,etc. All the usual vendors carry them as well. I rebuilt mine and it went well. The rear calipers with the e-brake is a serious hassle. make sure you have a manual and follow it. replacing the brake pads isnt a bad job. It is possible your calipers dont need rebuilding. look to see if they are leaking. also test each brake by placing a jack under the shock and jacking the tire off the ground. now apply and release the brake while someone tried to rotate the tire. It the brakes lock the tire and release ok, you maybe ok with your current calipers.

81SPIDERMATT · Post by **81SPIDERMATT** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 2:04 pm

yes you can do it yourself.... soooooo much help on this site will come your way just for the asking.....

you need to get the wheels off obviously.... most of the work can be done in the wells except for middle rear hose... you will need to get under for that one.... start asking your buddys for their stands and a good floor jack... you will find that more of your friends have them than you would have thought

basic socket set and A FLARE WRENCH for the brake lines.... 10mm i think... i repeat .. i think... it will help a lot

but as stated above some more trouble shooting may be in order to isolate the real problem.... and if you are game you could rebuild and or replace only needed items and drop the cost a lot....

so lets hear what is happening now that drove you to going to the shop in the first place....

was it just the shop saying it needed to be done....... try and find a mom and pop shop that you or friends trust and get a second opinion........ you can do it

EBmez · Post by **EBmez** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:48 pm

The reason I took it to a shop (and a brake and tire chain) in the first place, was that it needed tires. They had them for $245 installed, which I couldn't complain for 13" rims. This vehicle hasn't been inspected since 1994 (see my first post in the introductions forum) and I don't have the tools for brakes. If I have them do it, things are less like to get broken as they have the experience and tools. It was good for an assessment and basically a free list of things that need to be repaired.

I have a one-guy garage close to me who we've had do other work (brakes and rotors in particular) who I was considering taking it too. It would be a fraction of the other quoted cost and would save me a lot of (unnecessary) headache. I might have to supply the parts, but again, the savings would be considerable.

81SPIDERMATT · Post by **81SPIDERMATT** » Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:04 am

EBmez wrote:I have a one-guy garage close to me who we've had do other work (brakes and rotors in particular) who I was considering taking it too. It would be a fraction of the other quoted cost and would save me a lot of (unnecessary) headache. I might have to supply the parts, but again, the savings would be considerable.

BINGO

and he is less likely to just replace everything unless needed

EBmez · Post by **EBmez** » Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:03 am

81SPIDERMATT wrote:
EBmez wrote:I have a one-guy garage close to me who we've had do other work (brakes and rotors in particular) who I was considering taking it too. It would be a fraction of the other quoted cost and would save me a lot of (unnecessary) headache. I might have to supply the parts, but again, the savings would be considerable.
BINGO

and he is less likely to just replace everything unless needed

My only concern was that when I first bought it, I asked him about doing work in general on the car, but he said he wasn't familiar with foreign models. I took it to mean more engine work - I'm hoping that brakes/rotors are more standard across manufacturers around the world.

bobplyler · Post by **bobplyler** » Sun Aug 12, 2012 11:16 am

Brakes and rotors differ in detail. But for the most part they are very similar. The only thing that might be different is the rear parking brake. And it's not that different.

EBmez · Post by **EBmez** » Sun Aug 12, 2012 11:44 am

bobplyler wrote:Brakes and rotors differ in detail. But for the most part they are very similar. The only thing that might be different is the rear parking brake. And it's not that different.

The parking brake is the only part of it that's solid!

rontron2012 · Post by **rontron2012** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:50 am

VERY IMPORTANT POINT.................... when installing new brake pads.............you must depress the calipers.
THE FRONT CALIPERS ARE PUSHED BACK IN SLOWLY WITH A C CLIP OR SOMETHING LIKE.............AND THE REARS......
DIAL IN OR TURN IN...........DON'T TRY A PUSH THEM IN YOU WON'T HAVE ANY LUCK.......

Rascal · Post by **Rascal** » Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:36 pm

Brake repair isn't all that hard. I replaced calipers, rotors, pads, emergency brake cable and hoses on my '76.
The hardest part was getting the old parts off. Replacements parts are quite reasonable.

4uall · Post by **4uall** » Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:13 pm

this may be helpful

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXcClOfFmlg

majicwrench · Post by **majicwrench** » Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:14 pm

That major tire outfit is just selling you the works and taking your money. Makes me sick. I see it every day.
If fellow says he is not comfortable with foriegn models that is really good clue he is not the guy to take it too.

Ask around, friends, find someone they like. Or DRIVE IT , I'll bet it stops. Or take wheels off take pics post em so we can see.
Keith

Brake overhaul

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