Quick Question On Changing Brake Pads

[RRoller123]

I see in the Brooklands Manual that it instructs us to loosen the caliper bleed screw when pushing the piston back in to install new pads. An experienced mechanic friend told me that usually you can force back the piston and it will drive the brake fluid back through the system with no consequence or damage, as long as there is no pressure being applied to the brake pedal. Is there something different about the Fiat system that requires us to bleed fluid to get the piston to retract? I would rather not fiddle with the bleed screw as I am just changing pads and the system does not need to be bled. Thanks! Pete.

[bobplyler]

I just push the piston back. No need to loosen the bleed screw. Applies to both front and back. I use a c-clamp on the fronts, and a tire-iron to screw the back pistons in.

[TX82FIAT]

Same, I just push piston back. I have tool picked up years ago that makes pushing the piston back easy. I can't imagine it would cost more thn a couple bucks at any auto parts store if you do not have one already.

[dmwhiteoak]

A c-clamp is what I use placing the old pad reversed against the caliper to push against. It works great.

[rlux4]

The rears don't get pushed back though, they need to be screwed back in. There's a slot in the face of the piston cylinder for this. I use a file that's about the same width as the slot for this but I've heard of all kinds of tools used for it, even a tire iron. A regular screwdriver will be too small to do the job.
Ron

[bobplyler]

Be sure that the master cylinder reservoir isn't too full. Pushing the calipers back in will put more fluid in the reservoir.

[RRoller123]

Fantastic info from all of you! Thanks very much. With any luck this thing will be back on the road by tomorrow. Has been off for a long time, doing timing belt, front engine seals, rebuilding FI supply system/Injectors, new disks and pads all around, new radiator and fan blades, added Daniel Stern's front flasher module, and a complete front end suspension and tie rod rebuild. I am a slow worker... On the last lap I hope! I miss taking drives and the weather has been great!

[kmead]

I have tended to loosen the bleed screw to get the most heated fluid out of the system. This also can purge any particles of seal or whatever has collected in the caliper. As long as you do it right you won't get any air in the system.

How long has it been since the fluid has been completely purged from the system? Given that brakes last a long time on a rarely driven car, I bet its time to change the fluid. Has it been more than 2 years since you changed all of the fluid from the system?

If it has been a long time, consider changing the fluid.

Karl

[RRoller123]

The PO changed it last year so it should be ok. Car was only driven about 200 miles a year by them! I put more than that on it in the first couple of days. <{:^)

[Budduncan]

On the same subject, I changed the front pads on my 71 the other day as the old seals were shot. The car no longer pulls on braking, but I have never been totally satisfied with the brakes on this car for many years. It stops pretty well, but I cannot lock the brakes even with dramatic braking effort. Should I consider changing the master cylinder? I have bled the lines when I changed the pads and calipers a few weeks ago. The brakes have always been a bit "soft" on this car.
Thanks
Bud