carbureted 1980 Fiat 2000

[GuyD]

Hi Gang,

I am a proud owner of a carbureted 1980 Fiat 2000. Disclaimer *I don’t know much about mechanics so please be patient with me :0)

After reading plenty of great threads here I am in the process of searching for an 1800 manifold and new carburetor to give it some kick.

I would certainly like to add performance to the car but keep it very drivable day to day. I am struggling between carbs, 34 ADF or 32/36 DFEV.

I am also looking to de-smog the car. I can’t find a thread that shows how to properly do this.

A friend suggested doing Cams, and a 4-2-1 exhaust , which sound great, but I still would like it to run smooth day to day…what do you think?

I am very willing to invest the money into my new baby but also don’t want to make it more maintenance and a headache if I can’t have fun driving it every day.

I REALLY APPRECIATE any suggestions from the veterans here.

[tartan18]

To improve performance and drive-ability I went with the DFEV 32/36 and I couldn't be happier. Then I went with the Computronix ignition system (from Allison's Automotive). These were great performance improvements. I also upgraded my alternator with the 95 amp version. My car is a 1975 so it was loaded with emission "stuff." I took most of it out (EGR piping, vacuum lines, air pump and the related electrical wiring (removed six of the seven original relays). That greatly simplified the look of the engine bay. My next project is to go with a new exhaust system.

[bobplyler]

A 32/36 DFEV will make a great difference. When I put the 32/36 DFAV (same as the DFEV but a water choke instead of electric), it was night and day. And the emissions actually went down. You can either modify the stock air filter to fit, or use a different one. And you will need a spacer.

[GuyD]

Thanks for the feedback! I think I'm going with the 32/36 DFEV, lots of happy campers with it.

Do you know where I can find a link or article about de-smoging?

[md88plt]

Hey Guy,

I have had my 79 spider for about 12 years. My first mod was a 34 ADF. It gave a very small improved performance. Then I decided to to rebuild the engine with slightly larger and higher compression Mahle 8mm domed pistons. I had the blocked bored and the entire rotating assembly balanced. They also reground the valves. I Purchased a 300 degree duration intake cam and a 1800 intaked manifold. Reassembled the engine and the car runs good. The end result is that I notice a small increase in torque a a slight improved accelertaion.

Maybe If I went dual carbs and some porting of the head I would see more performance.

This was a lot of work, which I enjoyed, but the improved performance is not that noticeable. I think these are great little cars with great engines. If I had to do it all over I would put my money in to keeping my spider as original as possible.

[So Cal Mark]

it's important to build a motor with parts that work well together to make power in the intended range. A 300 degree cam for the street is not the best choice

[tartan18]

To de-smog my engine I found this series of articles on Mirafiori helpful. http://www.mirafiori.com/smog/

[parsok]

I just went through the exact same mod. There is a lot of pieces to remove and replace. Here is what I did:
Exhaust:
- remove heat shield
- remove 4-1 header and remove gasket (very NB as I found out later) and get a new one
- get a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold, either off a earlier (pre-'78 I think) or later model -the new manifold is a little smaller than the 4-1. It will expose a port in the engine. get a frost plug and expoxy it in place then epoxy a metal plate on top of that to block it off, it is not needed
- remove the catalytic converter
- you can change the exhaust pipes from a 1.5" to a 2.25" system for more performance

De-smog:
- remove the air pump and bracket from right side of engine - take the opportunity to add a ground (highly recommended on other posts) by adding a battery negative cable from the air pump engine bolt to a new bolt you'll screw into the side of the engine bay
-remove the hose from the air pump - it comes to the top of the engine and connects to the EGC
- remove EGC and plug hole with bolt - I can't recall the thread size but there are a couple of posts on that subject
- remove the gulp valve
- remove the air cleaner can and the snorkel and dispose
- get a new air filter system that sits on top of carb, looks way cool and offers better performance

Carb:
- most posts recommended the Weber or EMPI 32/356 DFEV with the electric choke
- remove carb - keep track of all the hoses that connect to it. You will only need 2 with the DFEV (gas and vacuum advance), the rest can be disposed
- remove the dual plane intake manifold, and gasket - number the hoses as per the shop manual. you'll need to reconnect the brake booster and one or two others
- remove all of the valve tubing that is attached to the dual plane manifold - these are all not required smog control
- get a single plane intake manifold from an earlier model, it will fit perfectly on the 2000. I used one from a '74 1800
- the new manifold is also smaller than the dual plane. You'll have to take of the timing belt back plate or bend it out of the way to get it off. There are 6 bolts holding the manifold on. The two in the middle are a bitch to get off. You will absolutely need a knuckle joint adapter for your swivel head ratchet. You'll also want to get some ratcheting box wrenches, especially 10 and 13mm, these are indispensable
- plug all the little ports on the manifold as they are not needed
- the shortened manifold will expose a port on the engine block. get a frost plug and epoxy it in place. you will not need to cover it as it sucks in as opposed to blowing like the exhaust side port does
- get a oil dip stick from a 1981 or newer 2000. the '80 won't fit unless you Macgyver a bracket. Even with the >'81 dipstick you'll need to add a small metal tab to keep it in place.
- with the new carb you'll find the accelerator connector does not fit the new carb. You will have to get an adapter set. SoCal Mark has one or two choices
- make sure you put a decent size gasket under the new carb, the higher the better. There are a couple of posts on this. I just added a second gasket and it seems to make a difference

I think that is it. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck and have fun

[fiat218]

I just went through the exact same mod. There is a lot of pieces to remove and replace. Here is what I did:
Exhaust:
- remove heat shield
- remove 4-1 header and remove gasket (very NB as I found out later) and get a new one
- get a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold, either off a earlier (pre-'78 I think) or later model -the new manifold is a little smaller than the 4-1. It will expose a port in the engine. get a frost plug and expoxy it in place then epoxy a metal plate on top of that to block it off, it is not needed
- remove the catalytic converter
- you can change the exhaust pipes from a 1.5" to a 2.25" system for more performance

De-smog:
- remove the air pump and bracket from right side of engine - take the opportunity to add a ground (highly recommended on other posts) by adding a battery negative cable from the air pump engine bolt to a new bolt you'll screw into the side of the engine bay
-remove the hose from the air pump - it comes to the top of the engine and connects to the EGC
- remove EGC and plug hole with bolt - I can't recall the thread size but there are a couple of posts on that subject
- remove the gulp valve
- remove the air cleaner can and the snorkel and dispose
- get a new air filter system that sits on top of carb, looks way cool and offers better performance

Carb:
- most posts recommended the Weber or EMPI 32/356 DFEV with the electric choke
- remove carb - keep track of all the hoses that connect to it. You will only need 2 with the DFEV (gas and vacuum advance), the rest can be disposed
- remove the dual plane intake manifold, and gasket - number the hoses as per the shop manual. you'll need to reconnect the brake booster and one or two others
- remove all of the valve tubing that is attached to the dual plane manifold - these are all not required smog control
- get a single plane intake manifold from an earlier model, it will fit perfectly on the 2000. I used one from a '74 1800
- the new manifold is also smaller than the dual plane. You'll have to take of the timing belt back plate or bend it out of the way to get it off. There are 6 bolts holding the manifold on. The two in the middle are a bitch to get off. You will absolutely need a knuckle joint adapter for your swivel head ratchet. You'll also want to get some ratcheting box wrenches, especially 10 and 13mm, these are indispensable
- plug all the little ports on the manifold as they are not needed
- the shortened manifold will expose a port on the engine block. get a frost plug and epoxy it in place. you will not need to cover it as it sucks in as opposed to blowing like the exhaust side port does
- get a oil dip stick from a 1981 or newer 2000. the '80 won't fit unless you Macgyver a bracket. Even with the >'81 dipstick you'll need to add a small metal tab to keep it in place.
- with the new carb you'll find the accelerator connector does not fit the new carb. You will have to get an adapter set. SoCal Mark has one or two choices
- make sure you put a decent size gasket under the new carb, the higher the better. There are a couple of posts on this. I just added a second gasket and it seems to make a difference

I think that is it. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck and have fun

i did this with my 80 too, i did not change the exhaust manifold yet, not sure if i will

[parsok]

according to some of the other posts it makes real difference. I'm not sure as I did it all at once but I can redline it in the first three gears - need to find a nice vacant back road to try to red line in 4th