No spark

[burlybryan]

'82 2000 FI. The car's been stored in my office/warehouse since parking last fall. Ran fine when parked.

Over the winter I've done the following:
- Rebuilt front bushings, balljoints, steering link and tie rods, new shocks all around.
- Figured out that the reason why my RF and LR driving lights and lic. plate lights didn't work was due to a wire being disconnected from the fuse box. Lights didn't work when I got the car last fall, but I find it odd how the wire could have been pulled.
- Troubleshooting cold start I determined I wasn't getting fuel from the CS injector so I sent the rail off to OK Injectors to have them cleaned. CS injector was clogged, but now all are in spec.

When cranking today to check for leaks at the fuel rail and hoses, the car cranked, but wouldn't fire. Pulled a plug and verified that it's getting fuel, but I couldn't get a plug to arc to the ground. When I was troubleshooting the cold start issue, I pulled the plug for the CS injector and tested it for voltage. In doing so, I inadvertently arced between the pins. Could this have shorted the relay or computer? I didn't assume the circuit with the lights is related, but I did re-disconnect the wire to no affect.

Aside from checking cold start components, I didn't disconnect or even touch any ignition components.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.

Bryan

[rlux4]

Are you getting power to the coil out of your ignition switch?
I don't think you've harmed the dual relay when you shorted the cold start injector. I'm thinking it would take a lot larger spike than that to harm any thing except the solenoid in the injector.
Ron

[burlybryan]

I didn't have the time to check the coil after work, but will do in the AM. Should I measure between the posts or from one to ground?

[rlux4]

The pos. terminal with the key on. It has the pink wire coming from the ignition switch. If no power there you may have a switch problem. With a multimeter or test light, ground to the engine.
Ron

[RRoller123]

This should help, from my manual.

Pete

[burlybryan]

Perfect! Thanks guys.

[burlybryan]

Tested the coil this morning.

+B to ground shows 10 volts. A little low, but getting power from the switch. Battery is reading 12.4 v at rest.
Resistance between coil posts shows 1.1 ohms. About 20% high from the spec Pete posted.
Resistance from coil post to center terminal shows 10K ohms. In spec.

Coil is original.

UPDATE! I pulled the coil and discovered that the harness connector to the ignition control module was loose. It's a weak connector as it is and I must have knocked it loose when fastening the top bolt of the new shocks. The old adage that every new problem is likely the result of fixing an old one comes true again.

It fires but is missing on a cylinder. Could be a fouled plug from all of the cranking. More investigation needed.

Time to do some work - this is the problem of having your car 15' away from ones desk.

[narfire]

I have had the same issue with that conection. I now have a zap-strap wrapped around it and the ballast to hold in place.