Help! Won't start

[Specialk]

Hi everyone,

Tried to take my car for first real run after winter and it won't start! Spring project was to refurb injectors. Everything is back in place and started car up 10 days ago. However didn' t have time for a real spin so keep the car running a few minutes and parked back in garage. Weather sucked last week-end so decided to replace headlight relay with IAP kit, feeding off the alternator. Went in fine and lights are working.

Tried to start car today but battery was dead (nothing new, happens if car sits for 2 weeks or more). Pushed car out a garage and tried to boost. Car turns over but nothing is catching. Not too sure if i hear the pump turning on.

Is there an easy way to test for a spark? Could the new headlight relay be intefering with something? Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Car is an 81 FI and my skills are quite basic.

Rgds

[Specialk]

Just tested sparks and I am getting one. Heard pump turn on also when i connected battery.

[rlux4]

You need to check two more things. The fuel pump is running, but is it pumping fuel? You can check this by disconnecting the small fuel line at the cold start valve, be careful, if it's pumping fuel it will spray out pretty good when you disconnect it. Then have a helper crank the car while you point the fuel line into a container, it should have a good steady stream. You may want to disconnect the coil + terminal so it doesn't start unexpectedly. Next would be the injectors. The best way to check them is with a noid light. Pull the #1 injector and put the noid light in the socket, crank the car and see if the light flickers. You can borrow a noid light at an auto parts store that has the loaner program. Other factors affecting starting like timing should be OK if nothing was changed since you last had it started.
Oh. There have been cases brought up here where a no start ended up being out of fuel. Got fuel?
Ron

[Specialk]

Thx.....haven't had a chance to work on the fuel issue as I prefer to do that outside. Quick question; if my battery is finished, could that prevent me from starting the car despite my trying to boost it? After fully charging the battery, trying to start car drains it in less than a second.

Regarding the noid light, is there any way to test the light itself? I've bought a set but haven't been able to get the bosch one to light up on any of my connectors. Not too sure if I'm doing something wrong, if I have huge electrical issues or if the noid is no good.

Cheers,

[rlux4]

You could plug the noid light into the cold start injector connector, it's separate from the other injectors. But I don't think you have a bad noid light, I think it's showing you that your injectors aren't getting pulse signal. You need to check the injector grounds (two black sheathed wires mounted on the two rear outboard side cam tower bolts on the intake side, and your dual relay. Here's a diagnostic manual for checking it.
http://www.wcmotors.com/personal/Fiat%2 ... agnostics/
Ron

[Specialk]

Hi everybody,

Ron, thanks formthe input.

Replaced battery. It was due anyway. Pulled cold start valve and no fuel, i mean nothing came out. Remove it from the fuel line and nothing......not a drop. Also, squeezing the fuel lines, either at the fuel rail or even just after the metal sections, the lines feel quite soft and no pressure.

When i pulled the fuel rail and injectors to do my refurb, I had to use the vacuum pump to release the pressure in the fuel line. When re-installing, do I have to pump to add pressure or create some type a positve suction(?)?

By the way, had already cleaned and attached the two grounds.

[rlux4]

You shouldn't need to if you have fuel at the pump. If you have no pressure at the fuel rail then for some reason the fuel pump isn't pumping fuel. The fuel should be at the fuel rail, under pressure, even after an extended non run. You'll need to check that you're getting fuel at the filter and pump from the tank. Don't run the pump too long with no fuel going through it, it needs this for internal cooling.
Ron

[124JOE]

be sure to inspect all your fuel lines,metal ,rubber,pump,filter,rubber
and the return line
do you smell any gas?
yes get a battery

[Specialk]

Sorry for the delay in responding but hard to find enough time to work on the car. As electrical issues aren't my strong point, I bailed and had the car towed to my mechanic. Ends up that Ron was right....seems I shorted the wires when I was attempting to tune up as per Brad's article. Car starts up no problem now......however fan didn' t turn on! Read a few threads and found out that it's on the same fuse as the horn. Tested the horn, it wasn't working. Replaced fused and fan kicked in at 200 (is this a problem?). Thanks everybody for the hints on that one.

Also, the tube (just replaced) running from the aux. Air regulator to the intake manifold is collapsed (squished) by suction while the car is running. As soon as i turn of car, it take back it's original form. Is it the tubing or does it mean a bigger problem?

[rlux4]

There's always suction on that hose, and with your AAR closed it would only collapse if the hose is too soft. Is the hose you used reinforced?
Ron

[KidDingo]

Hello SpecialK,

200F is about right for the fan. You can get a fan switch from Auto Ricambi that kicks in a little sooner than 200F.

[Specialk]

Thx Ron & everybody else for the comments. Will replace the hose with a reinforced piece.

Cheers!

[124JOE]

im glad your problems are getting fixed up