burping

[RRoller123]

Thanks for the info. It doesn't leak and seems to work properly, so in place it stays.

[gudtimer41]

Success!! I did jack up the front end and I did successfully burp the system, but........still no fan turnon, even thought the bottom of the engine was quite hot. THEREFORE, I went back over the fuses again as they all looked just fine and all contacts were good but this time with a jumper wire. Lo and behold, besides air in the system, a bad fuse was masquerading as a good one. New fuse and viola! We're off. Re the air in the system problem, I was actually going through that thing that noone looks at, the owners manual In the cooling section it describes how you drain and then refill the system and it describes the bleeder plug. A brass bolt in the fitting that connects the two upper hoses that run from the thermostat to the upper radiator is there for the purpose of ridding the system of air. Just remove the bolt, run the engine and wait until the air stops coming, pop the bolt back in and you're good to go. Whoda thunk????

[RRoller123]

Glad that worked out! Jacking up the front end gets that bleeder plug you mention up to the highest point in the cooling system, but with a "T" (Prestone, etc.) it isn't necessary to jack it up because you can position the top of the "T" at the highest point. Since the machined face that the bleeder seats on is on the slanted side of the union, not on the top, there is about 1/2" or so of air that remains in the union, hoses, etc. if the car isn't jacked up. Maybe that doesn't make any difference, maybe it does. I don't know, but I jack it up and pretty much all the air possible is expunged. Probably better if I would just put the "T" in! Maybe someday, I will add it to the ever expanding list.

[124cso]

the owners manual In the cooling section it describes how you drain and then refill the system and it describes the bleeder plug. A brass bolt .......... Just remove the bolt, run the engine and wait until the air stops coming, pop the bolt back in and you're good

You don;t actually say what model you have but from comments, I assume a 2000 FI ? My car has a sort of poppet valve under that cap on the tee piece but "looks correct as per the w/shop book" but it does not really work. I have to bleed the system by slipping the hose off the throttle plate heater and topping it off with a 30cc syringe I got from the vetinarian, using it as a tiny funnel with a small plastic tube where the needle would go.

A few points ;
If you suspect fan or fan switch is faulty, toot your horn They are the only things that work on a spider without a key in the ignition. They are permantly fed from battery and share a single fuse. Will show you if there is power there.

I replaced my fan switch as it 'suddenly' failed when I had a radiator leak fixed by radiator shop, it gets 'un-nervingly hot" before the fan cuts in - over 200 deg.

No air bubble would keep bottom of radiator empty but do not fill too fast. It does take a while to heat up though.

Measure your water/coolant into coke bottles before you start filling. You know the capacity and will see how much is left if you get a false full indication. When I fill from empty, run to fan-on hot, back to cool (twice), It takes about another 1/2 to 2/3 pint to bring header bottle up to top mark.


F W I W.

[124ADDHE]

Pull rad cap off, fill, squeeze bottom rad hose gently and then vigorously (no jokes ya pervs), she will burp a lot, keep adding water and doing the preceeding. Start car, run up to temp, rev motor, turn off. Repeat above procedure if you want or just check the coolant levels a few drives later. Never had an overheating spider or a airlock. Good luck