Timing Issue

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photograferz

Timing Issue

Post by photograferz »

Just finished replacing timing belt etc.. When car is idling, it is very rough. I put a timing light on it and the timing seems to move around. I see the timing indicate 10 btdc and the it will move to 5 btdc and then back to 10 btdc. I tried rotating the distributor to smooth it out with no success. Idle is set at 900 rpm and it idles, just sounds rough. Doesn't smell like its running rich at all. I drove it around the block, and when I accelerated hard, it sounded like a ansa exhaust, but it just a stock exhaust system. It originally had the dual points, but I converted it to the single points. I put new coil, plugs, wires and points on it as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ed
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maytag
Posts: 1789
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:22 pm
Your car is a: 1976 124 spider
Location: Rocky Mountains....UTAH! (Not Colorado)

Re: Timing Issue

Post by maytag »

Did you also replace the condenser when you replaced the points?
I'm no Boy-Racer..... but if I can't take every on-ramp at TWICE the posted limit.... I'm a total failure!
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124JOE
Posts: 3141
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
Location: SO. WI

Re: Timing Issue

Post by 124JOE »

also how are your advabce springs under the points
if there streched your timing will jump around
i bought a chevy curve kit and used the smallest ones in there to replace the old springs
Last edited by 124JOE on Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
photograferz

Re: Timing Issue

Post by photograferz »

Yes, I replaced the condensor. And what is a Chevy Curve Kit, and where do I purchase?
So Cal Mark

Re: Timing Issue

Post by So Cal Mark »

if it's rough, you have a misfire not a timing issue. Try removing the plug wires from the dist cap one at a time to isolate the misfiring cylinder
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124JOE
Posts: 3141
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
Location: SO. WI

Re: Timing Issue

Post by 124JOE »

its a set of springs to set your addvance

under the pionts theres the addvance mecanisum ans the stock springs are on posts
it holds your timming still
if the springs are worn out you need to replace them
'
you can buy a curve kit at most auto stores $10 or less

or corse these guys have more exp than i do
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
majicwrench

Re: Timing Issue

Post by majicwrench »

Was it rought before the repairs?? Or just after?? IF just after, then something you have done is the issue. Recheck cam timing etc. Is not too unusual, esp if engine is not smooth, to see timing mark moving a bit.
photograferz

Re: Timing Issue

Post by photograferz »

Thanks for all the replies! I tested for a misfiring cylinder, didn't find one. I also checked the cam timing, that also seemed to be correct.
So I pulled the spark plugs to see what they looked like, they were brand new Champion spark plugs and were black dry, & sooty. Blew them off and re-installed. Set the carbs idle mixture screw to two turns out from being fully seated, and adjusted until engine ran as smooth as it could
It was still idling rough though. Rough may not be the correct term, the motor seemed to be loping or surging up and down, and shaking in it's mounts.
At this point, I decided to adjust the distributor to see what would happen. When I rotated it counter clockwise, the rpms increased and it ran poorly until the motor would conk out. When I rotated clock wise, the rpms decrease and the motor runs smooth and quiet, no shaking, and no noise from the valve train.(since I purchased this car the valve train seemed loud)
Tonight I will take it out for a spin and see how the car performs.
Again, thank you for all the replies, it gave me a starting point to trouble shooting, and hopefully this issue is resolved.
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maytag
Posts: 1789
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:22 pm
Your car is a: 1976 124 spider
Location: Rocky Mountains....UTAH! (Not Colorado)

Re: Timing Issue

Post by maytag »

There's few things more aggravating than "fixing" something on accident. It's always better if you can find the cause and be sure it's resolved. That way, you don;t have to cross all your fingers. :wink:

Keith asked a very pertinent question: Was it doing this before you replaced stuff? Were you trying to solve a problem by replacing all the ignition parts? Or were you just doing regular maintenance?
If rotating your distributor has "fixed" the issue, ask why. What is your timing set at now?

I'm also wondering if you set the dwell / gap when you replaced the points?
I'm no Boy-Racer..... but if I can't take every on-ramp at TWICE the posted limit.... I'm a total failure!
photograferz

Re: Timing Issue

Post by photograferz »

I absolutely agree with your comment "It's always better if you can find the cause and be sure it's resolved". I bought this 1975 Spider in late January of this year. It had just had a new paint job and cosmetically is a great looking car. Previous owner had 5k worth of receipts of work that was supposedly done on it.
After driving it for 2-3 days I noticed the strong smell of gas, a loud valve train, and it was idling way to high. When I tried to adjust the idle lower, the car ran horrible, and at that point I noticed the cam seals were spitting oil. So I went over the car to see what other problems there might be. If the previous owner actually spent 5k on parts and labor, I can't find it. So I decided to replace as much on the car as I could to make the car more mechanically sound and run properly.
Everything in the engine compartment was covered in oil and grime and looked like the car had sat in a barn for 30 years. I replaced the cam seals, aux seal, crank seal, tensioner bearing, water pump, thermostat, timing belt, v-belt, coil, distributor cap and rotor,plug wires, spark plugs, points & condensor, carb, guibo, carrier bearing, and u-joints. I still have to put the new shocks and brakes on. In the process of this work I cleaned all the oil and grime off the motor and engine compartment, sealed all the vacuum leaks etc... And yes I gapped the points and plugs.
This is my first Fiat, so I purchased a shop manual to insure that I used the proper procedures for the repairs as well as setting the timing. That is what is so confusing about this timing issue. If I follow the procedures in the shop manual to set the timing, the car runs poorly. If I rotate the distributor clockwise 3/16", the car purrs like a kitten.
I took it out for a drive yesterday, ran it around for about 15 minutes taking it very easy and it ran great, then I ran it for for another 15 minutes pretty aggressively and no issues.
The confusing part is when I put a timing light on it, the timing mark is showing up at the 3:00 position. If anybody has an explanation, I would gladly like to know what I am dealing with.
photograferz

Re: Timing Issue

Post by photograferz »

Just an update on the timing issue. Turns out it was vapor lock of my brain. I had been driving the car for awhile and it was running great.The distributor developed a leak so i replaced the inner seal. During the process of re-timing the car, I finally noticed the dial on the back of the timing light. It was set at 30 deg. Amazingly, when I set the dial to zero, my timing was within 1 degree.
2ndwind
Posts: 548
Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:17 pm
Your car is a: 1982 Spider
Location: Cincinnati OH

Re: Timing Issue

Post by 2ndwind »

Thanks for the follow-up. I was following this thread and curious how it turned out.

I have to remember that "vapor lock of the brain". I get that fairly frequently.
Steve
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
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