Parts list for 79 fiat spider
Parts list for 79 fiat spider
Hello fellow fiat enthusiasts. i am new to the forum and have recently aquired a 1979 fiat spider 2000 pinafaria from my grandfather that is green with beige interior. The car has been sitting for the last 20 years in a garage it is in decent condition. I got the car started fairly easily and i noticed fuel leaks from the drivers side of the trunk im assuming filler neck hose? also the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and the brakes are seized due to being rusted, so i cant move the car without dollies. i have ordered front and rear calipers and brake pads. i also plan on buying new rotors along with new brake hoses possiblt stainless steel braided? i also think im assuming it might need a new brake master cylinder as well. what fiat vendor do you guys reccomend? any input is apprecciated
- 124JOE
- Posts: 3141
- Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
- Location: SO. WI
Re: Parts list for 79 fiat spider
well the rubber of a 30 plus car will be shot
you need to replace the filler tube and the rubber gas lines ,the meatal fuel lines are inside the cabin under the carpet
as for the brakes grab a BFH and give each rotor"without rim"a god whack to shock it free
yes you need the master cylinder replaced and all the fluid "dont forget the center rubber line at the rear axle"
i dont like ss braided hoses for my own reasons
mostly money,she needs so much so dont dump a load on lines that WILL DO THE SAME as what you have going on
tires ok?heat selector above the pass floor board ok?
have someone or yourself retourque the head
change the fluid in the rear end
ps the power for the turn signals comes from the hazzard switch
and most people with the 79 change the intake to the 1800 one.your has two holes 28/32
and a bigger carb because the stock 79 was heavly regulated and is the smallest one good on gas but bad on perfomance
i have 3,yours the 28/32 adha and my stock 32/32 adfa and the one im using the 32/36 dfev
we love pics.left 32/36 center 32/32 right 28/32
you need to replace the filler tube and the rubber gas lines ,the meatal fuel lines are inside the cabin under the carpet
as for the brakes grab a BFH and give each rotor"without rim"a god whack to shock it free
yes you need the master cylinder replaced and all the fluid "dont forget the center rubber line at the rear axle"
i dont like ss braided hoses for my own reasons
mostly money,she needs so much so dont dump a load on lines that WILL DO THE SAME as what you have going on
tires ok?heat selector above the pass floor board ok?
have someone or yourself retourque the head
change the fluid in the rear end
ps the power for the turn signals comes from the hazzard switch
and most people with the 79 change the intake to the 1800 one.your has two holes 28/32
and a bigger carb because the stock 79 was heavly regulated and is the smallest one good on gas but bad on perfomance
i have 3,yours the 28/32 adha and my stock 32/32 adfa and the one im using the 32/36 dfev
we love pics.left 32/36 center 32/32 right 28/32
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
Re: Parts list for 79 fiat spider
sounds good where is a good place to order the fuel lines and the brake hoses? as far as the brakes being locked up i will try wd40 and a hammer, i want to get the wheels moving so i can have it towed to my house. the body only has minor rust near the gas tank area besides that the body and interior in fair condition
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- Posts: 313
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 12:44 am
- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider
Re: Parts list for 79 fiat spider
Welcome and congrats on the fiat. First off I'd lay off the hammer before you find out the real problem. It's a very easy process to just remove the brake pads if the calipers are stuck in a full brake position. If your wheel bearings are seized or your transmission you have a little bit more of a problem. Find out the issue first then post here for a solution.
Second, your gas tank is probably rusted to almost nothing inside. You will have to open the tank from the top and have a look inside. If you don't address the tank issue you will always have fuel problems. Personally if I were you I'd go pick up a couple like 4' pieces of fuel line and a filter and bypass the tank for now by hooking the fuel pump to one line and the fuel return to another and run both into like a gallon gas tank with fresh gas. You can buy the temporary stuff from like autozone/pep boys/advance. They have the filter and the gas lines are standard but you can match them to your metric lines fairly easily for now.
Third, be prepared for a couple thousand $$ investment just to get the car mechanically sound. Parts are very readily available at places like international auto, autoricambi, Midwest bayless, vicks auto, allisons automotive, etc.. I can't recommend one over the other. In addition to all the braking components, gas lines, etc., you will need to change out all the bushings, probably the entire suspension will need replacement, transmission will need a once over, new carb, new tires, etc. And you will be very lucky if the electrical has no issues. Don't mean to down your enthusiasm just letting you know that it will be a time and money undertaking.
Second, your gas tank is probably rusted to almost nothing inside. You will have to open the tank from the top and have a look inside. If you don't address the tank issue you will always have fuel problems. Personally if I were you I'd go pick up a couple like 4' pieces of fuel line and a filter and bypass the tank for now by hooking the fuel pump to one line and the fuel return to another and run both into like a gallon gas tank with fresh gas. You can buy the temporary stuff from like autozone/pep boys/advance. They have the filter and the gas lines are standard but you can match them to your metric lines fairly easily for now.
Third, be prepared for a couple thousand $$ investment just to get the car mechanically sound. Parts are very readily available at places like international auto, autoricambi, Midwest bayless, vicks auto, allisons automotive, etc.. I can't recommend one over the other. In addition to all the braking components, gas lines, etc., you will need to change out all the bushings, probably the entire suspension will need replacement, transmission will need a once over, new carb, new tires, etc. And you will be very lucky if the electrical has no issues. Don't mean to down your enthusiasm just letting you know that it will be a time and money undertaking.