Sensor

Chihua33 · Post by **Chihua33** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 4:23 pm

Could a bad connection from this sensor keep the fan from turning on?
My car gets up past 190 but the fan still doesn't kick in?

The PO said he broke the connector on that sensor and kind of rigged it back together....

narfire · Post by **narfire** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:10 pm

Nope. Fan switch is on the bottom of the rad driver side. It picks up the temp of the fluid and will turn the fan on. If you have an air bubble in the system the lower part of the rad will stay cool and the sensor will not get too temp to turn the fan on.
Make sure the cooling system is WELL burped. If you do not have the port in the heater hose, then jack the front of the car and take the rad cap off. Start the car and let it idle. As it gets warmer you will notice air bubbles comming out of the rad(burps) and when it stops, look at the inside of the rad and you should see the coolant flowing when all the air is out. This can take ten minutes or so. The fan should turn on at the 190 deg or so mark when the coolant is flowing.
Turn the car off and top up the coolant and good to go.
The lower sensors have been known to be defective, but make sure there is no air in the system first.
The sensor in the pic is for the engine...cold start I believe.
Chris

Chihua33 · Post by **Chihua33** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 6:03 pm

I bought a port to put in the heater hose...but when I cut that hose to put the port in, won't coolant pour out of there?

narfire · Post by **narfire** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 6:08 pm

Perhaps a little bit. A couple of rags around will soak up any spilage. That is a high point so what will spill has to be higher in the system.

Chihua33 · Post by **Chihua33** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 6:26 pm

okay, so I just cut the hose, put the port in and clamp it down?
seems easy enough.

so then if I do that, do I just take that cover off, and let it idle and let air come out of there?

Chihua33 · Post by **Chihua33** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:00 pm

I let it run until it hit a little over 190 on the gauge top two rad hoses are hot, bottom of rad and bottom hose are not.

So that means I have an air bubble correct?

how long will I have to wait now before I cut my hose and put in the port?

rlux4 · Post by **rlux4** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:42 pm

Yes. That means air is trapped in the bottom hose and your stat won't open if it's not immersed in liquid. Or you have a stuck stat. when your system is drained pull the stat and plut it in boiling water to see if it opens. Drill the hole in it before you put it back on.
Ron

124JOE · Post by **124JOE** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:43 pm

untill now
45 min or so then open the cap to releave pressure
then cut ouy an inch from heater hose
yes it will leak out some
just top it off in the port when done

some people drill a 1/8 hole in the thermostat plate
to burp the lower hose

that requires removing the thermostat to get all the shavings

Chihua33 · Post by **Chihua33** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:46 pm

How do you know how much to put in to top it off? just so that is full?

Chihua33 · Post by **Chihua33** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:48 pm

also, do you think I'm better off draining the whole system and pulling the stat like Ron suggests? or should I put the port in first and try it that way?

Fiat88 · Post by **Fiat88** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:29 pm

Chihua33 wrote:also, do you think I'm better off draining the whole system and pulling the stat like Ron suggests? or should I put the port in first and try it that way?

If you don't know the condition of the antifreze or when it was last changed, I would just drain+flush the system. Doesn't take long.

Chihua33 · Post by **Chihua33** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:36 pm

What does a "flush" actually mean? I put the t in the upper hose and let it warm up and the bottom hose is still cool.
I want to drain and flush but not really sure what it all consists of and how much I'll need to refill the system.

124JOE · Post by **124JOE** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:03 pm

a flush is just that put a hose on the port
take off the lower hose on the rad
and the thermostat
you will flush the core and head
then remove the rad cap and flush out the rad
drain all water and fill with antifreeze mix 50/50

while your in there drill the hole in the disk
by the morning it will fill all air traps so retop it off "in the port too"

theres also a block drain plug

narfire · Post by **narfire** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:37 pm

Bottom line here is when the cap is off and you can see the coolant flowing in the rad, then the thermostat is open and the air is out.... provided you had the heater valve open... have to make sure the air is out of there as well.

Chihua33 · Post by **Chihua33** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 3:46 pm

So I flushed my radiator and looked at the stat but mine looked different compared to the ones that I see on here that are drilled. I put it all back together and filled it up. Took it for a short drive and the gauge read about 190 when I got back I let it run in my driveway and it went to 195. Now before my bottom hose wouldn't get warm but now it was warm. But my fan still didn't kick in. Does this narrow it down to being a fan problem rather then air trapped or bad stat?

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