floor repair

[idocdan]

Need to repair the driver's side floor. The pan is rusted away all along the panel by the door, and the outside seat rail needs replacing. The cross member is salvageable I think, but there is substantial solid floor, surprisingly. I read here of various products to use after patching, but need to review them. Suggestions?
Thanks

[124JOE]

theres a few diferent ways to do this
all of them need the metal cleaned up "at least remove the scale rust"

#1 cut out all holes for welding in new patches

#2 rust inhibiter for surface rust apply let dry and paint

#3 POR15 paint with layers of fiberglass then repaint then more fiber and paint...

[idocdan]

Thanks, Joe-
I need to attach to the side panel/rail. Can I still do this by running the fiberglass up the side of the panel, or do I need to weld?

[AndyS]

If you decide to use Fiberglass, do not use the typical polyester resins. they don't bind that well to paint or metal, and end up de-laminating and trapping moisture, starting the rust cycle again. I come across this all the time in old sports cars. Often I can stick a pry bar under the glass repair area and pop the entire thing right off the floors.

use an epoxy resin instead available online or from Tap plastics. takes longer to set up, but is way stronger, and adheres way better. If you can weld some tie in supports first, that is a good thing to do. Rivets work fine to attach some metal straps/supports as well, and you can "epoxy glass" over them .

http://www.fibreglast.com/category/Epox ... hwodlD3WQA

[124JOE]

yes but do the bottom side as well
use as many glass pieces as you can
i think 20 layers is a bit extra but strong as heck

[idocdan]

so, am I painting between layers of glass with this resin or PQR15?

[124JOE]

POR15

[RRoller123]

Between the layers of fiberglass weave would be the epoxy resin as discussed below. The POR15 is a metal treatment.

[124JOE]

as it was dicribed to me
it just POR15
dont worry it will dry
and thats all it has to do

[idocdan]

Great comments--thanks all, I think I have my plan of attack. POR15 first, then resin/glass....
Is this epoxy resin available from pats stores, or just online/Tap?

[124JOE]

yes you can get resin at auto parts stores

the best resin is marine grade

[Exit98]

This thread is getting confusing. I'm facing the same issues dealing with my floors. I've got a six inch separation along the edge of the pass side floor where it meets the wall below the door. I don't weld. I want to fiberglass it but want to treat the floor with POR 15 first. But the fiberglass repair kit says must be on bare metal, no paint, in order to bond.

I really am concerned about fiberglassing the bare floor without protection. Joe is suggesting using POR rather than the resin with the fiber mat?

In fact the POR 15 catalog has other products including a mat that looks just like fiberglass mat that they claim you can POR over to make a strong repair. They also have a POR Patch which they say is "POR 15 in a Tube" which is a filler and seam sealer which they claim can patch holes and seams. They also have an epoxy putty but this is not for rust protection.

RIght now I'm thinking I'll go all POR, the 15, the Patch and the "PowerMesh" rather than fiberglassing.

[124JOE]

yes the tread i read on here had por15 and a mesh
no resin seen

you can also patch with metal using rivets and welding later

[idocdan]

I'm still wavering between using pop rivets with bent steel to bridge from the sill to the floor, cutting out the rust and treating per POR15 instructions, then fiberglassing over, or welding instead of rivets. maybe a combination? I'm have arc welded once upon a time, but would not attempt this myself in this application, so I would need someone with experience. I have someone taking a look at it tomorrow. Will be interesting to hear what he has to say.

[Exit98]

Apparently there are a few of us in the middle of doing our floors. Mine is coming along slow but sure.

Here is the sound/heat shield stuff I'll be using. It was recommended to me by a cousin with some restoration experience.

http://r.ebay.com/gaVsJy

The price is right, shipped fast, and so far looks like it will do the job. It is adhesive backed. Before I re-installed my heater box I put a couple pieces underneith it. Easy to apply and sticks really good. I think by cutting it into small squares and rectangles I'll be able to put it almost everywhere. Way up near the top of the the inside firewall, inside the hollow area of the inside wheel wells (there is a speaker cutout in the sheet metal so I can get my hand inside) the interior quarter panel and so forth. Even inside the doors when the time comes.