Heater Valve replacement, should I be scared?

[garhett]

Hey guys,

Looks like an easy job and I can't find to much on it so I assume it is. However, I do have a couple questions/concerns:

1. Do I have to drain any fluid first? If so how much and from where?

2. The valve appears to be seized which leads me to believe that whatever fluid is in the heater core is pretty old. Should I be worried about any sediment, etc getting into the system once the valve is replaced? (Not sure if this is being paranoid but just like to cover my bases)

3. I bought one gasket not realizing there are (obviously, ha) two connections. I believe that the heater core connect is where the gasket goes, and that the inlet to the valve simply has an O-Ring?

Thanks guys!

(Just about to put my formal introduction up btw. Check it out if ya got some free time.)

[kmac33]

Since you are tackling this project, I'd recommend you go ahead and take the opportunity to service your entire cooling system. Drain the fluid. If the fluid is nasty with lots of sediment, probably a good idea to have the radiator flushed. Most radiator shops will do a complete cleaning and pressure test for around $45.00 - cheap insurance. I'd also pull the radiator core and have it cleaned and pressure tested as well. They tend to corrode and leak at the junction with the valve. If I remember correctly, it cost me around $60 to have my heater core cleaned and repaired at the corroded junction.

Heater core before repair

[garhett]

Thanks for the advice kmac. The PO actually put a new radiator in there so I'm not worried about that much.

I have the service manual, but I was wondering how much work it is to get that heater core out of there? And mine is leaking a bit too there where the valve meets, what gives?!

[Fiat88]

Soak those heater core studs really good before trying to remove the valve nuts. They snap very easily, ask me how I know...

[launieg]

It is a bit of a chore. You will need to remove your center console or at least lift it enough to slide out the middle section that is ahead of it (section below the dash). If you have any reason to remove the dash, it will become even easier, but that is not necessary. Count on a full day's work to do it all.

You can read on the forum about replacing the valve. Replacement ones are different and require a modification to pipes to get them through the firewall (or cut a larger hole in the firewall). However, it is sure worth it to stop any leaks.

I got my valve out of Russia (via ebay) and it was half the price and excellent quality, but that's just because I'm a penny pincher. Here are photos of the old and new valves. You can see how the pipes are at different angles and require the firewall work or bending (extremely difficult) or replace partially with rubber hose.

[launieg]

Ditto on the valve nuts, or you can even end up twisting out the bolts since the metal on the core is thin! You should also be careful to not overtighten the nuts on the new valve or you can deform the metal on the core. I recommend you put on the new valve using both the paper gaskets and water gasket sealant (blue stuff is what I used), and then test it with house water pressure. A nasty thing to do all that work of getting it in and then find out you have a leak.

[So Cal Mark]

the valves use a rubber gasket, not paper.

[garhett]

OK, sorry guys I guess I just needed to look a little bit and I could of found my answer in other posts.

Ya know, I really like IAP, but it's just those little things like not pointing out this is NOT a 124 heater valve . Do they just assume that anyone buying parts from them has rebuilt several of these cars or just happens to have friends such as you guys?

So looks like it's gonna be a little more work than I had planned for, but it's still doable. Did find that it may be possible to lubricate the old valve and that may fix the problem so I guess I'll give that a shot before tearing it all apart.

[dmwhiteoak]

You can lubricate the valve, as I did, and it may work fine for a little while. Mine did and after 2 weeks filled my floor with antifreeze. So, do it now or do it later but chances are you will have to do it.

[baltobernie]

Heater cores on old cars often contain a lot of crud, especially "fair weather" cars like the Spider. PO's often ignore or jumper the heater rather than fix it. There is therefore some possibility that replacing the valve alone will allow that crud into your new radiator.

Here's how to modify the new valve: http://dcfiats.org/tech/Spider_heater-A.pdf. Lubing the valve will most likely not fix it. Removing the core or valve requires the dexterity of that little guy in Ocean's Eleven! Raising the car a little and covering the door sill with something cushy will help. Removing the passenger seat really helps. A 1/4" socket set makes the job much easier.

If you R&R the core, look up the air intake and remove any bird's or insect nests which seem to reside in every other Spider ever made. Also a little electric motor oil on the fan for good luck.

After testing and/or cleaning, the core must fit perfectly for the lower ductwork to seat. There are four spring clips that secure the lower ductwork to the upper. One or more of them often went "zing!" into the darkness during a PO "repair" (or omitted because the core wasn't seated; see above). Some of us have extras lying around.


If you are determined to replace the valve only, buy a "flushing tee" kit for ten bucks and install as outlined in other posts. Route the heater hoses into the engine bay, but only attach one of them to the motor. Use the one that's downstream of the flushing tee. Select full heat on the valve, then flush with your garden hose. If all's well, then you can button everything up, backflush the entire system, drain, (including the engine block) and install 50/50 antifreeze (never Dexcool) and distilled water.

[garhett]

You can lubricate the valve, as I did, and it may work fine for a little while. Mine did and after 2 weeks filled my floor with antifreeze. So, do it now or do it later but chances are you will have to do it.

Thanks for the heads up! OK OK, obviously it's the right decision to get that heater core out of there too and have it flushed. Once I do get it out of there, do I simply take it to a shop to have it cleaned/repaired/tested?

If you R&R the core, look up the air intake and remove any bird's or insect nests which seem to reside in every other Spider ever made. Also a little electric motor oil on the fan for good luck.

Thanks for that too!
Should I be worried about getting the core back in? I'll know as soon as I take it off if I have all the clips right?

[ga.spyder]

Ditto on Bernies suggestion.Take out the passenger seat,uless you were once a contortionist for Cirque 'd' Soleil

[baltobernie]

Craig and I are large, old guys. You may not find this job as awful as we did. Moderator Mark is also an old guy, but he's done this so many times, it's easy for him.

A local radiator shop can clean, pressure-test, and repair the core if necessary.

Problems re-installing the core are greatly minimized with the rubber hose modification mentioned earlier. Try-fitting upside-down on your back after repeatedly tweaking the metal tube gets old, quick. My point is, if the lower shroud won't seat to accept the spring clips, the core isn't in properly, and the clips won't stretch far enough to latch. You'll also lose some of that already-marginal airflow in the heater/defroster.

As soon as you remove the lower console, you can see the shroud and any missing or broken components.

[garhett]

Got the core out yesterday!
There's a wire going from the valve to the core. Don't see a spot on the new one for it so wondering what to do with it?

[124JOE]

its probably if the core frezzes it opens so the valve dont brake
im a thinking