Rusted brake connections

[nadman009]

I am in the process of rebuilding my calipers and replacing rotors, pads, and hoses. Despite my attempts to free the old hoses however, they were all fairly siezed and I ended up with 2 broken connectors. I am talking about the 10 mil fitting that goes on the end of the flared brake line, which connects to the brake hose. I tried a few local auto parts places and iap but no luck. Where do I get replacements?

[tartan18]

I had the same problem. Went to the local NAPA and bought six adapters -- metric to 3/16ths (I think that is the size) to go with new steel hard lines. It won't be all stock (metric) but all the hard steel lines are being replaced along with new stainless flex brake lines, calipers, rotors and of course new pads.

[Divers]

Try autoricambi


I got mine from Csaba.

[Fi8spider]

Little trick for next time.
And once again it's all down to using the right tool.

Before you attempt to loosen up flare nuts that have been on the front of your spider for ever.
Get your self a 10mm PIPE spanner so you get a full grip around the hex.

Instead of loosening them up first try tightening them up. What this does is create a little miniscule burr on the nut in the opposite direction to loosening it, then when you turn the 10mm clockwise the pipe spanner will have more bite on the nut.

If your changing the brake hoses or disturbing them from the caliper, try and use new copper washers (softer thr better) on the caliper end when refitting them, they hate being disturbed for some reason - I've had bad luck in the past a couple times when reusing these washers.

[wikkid]

Little trick for next time.
And once again it's all down to using the right tool.

Before you attempt to loosen up flare nuts that have been on the front of your spider for ever.
Get your self a 10mm PIPE spanner so you get a full grip around the hex.

Instead of loosening them up first try tightening them up. What this does is create a little miniscule burr on the nut in the opposite direction to loosening it, then when you turn the 10mm clockwise the pipe spanner will have more bite on the nut.

If your changing the brake hoses or disturbing them from the caliper, try and use new copper washers (softer thr better) on the caliper end when refitting them, they hate being disturbed for some reason - I've had bad luck in the past a couple times when reusing these washers.

The other good thing about tightening a connector before trying to loosen it is that it can break any bond that is seizing it, making it easier to loosen it.

Copper washers are generally not re-use items, it's true. The reason they are copper is to be soft and to deform to meet both surfaces and form a tighter seal. Hence, they do not perform as well a second time 'round. You can heat (anneal) them if you know what you are doing, but for the cost of new ones (available from vendors that sell the other brake parts), it's hardly worth the effort to anneal and re-use.

[vandor]

We sell the brake line nuts (sorry, no pic yet):

http://www.autoricambi.us/cgi/commerce. ... ey=BR4-460

I also have new and used metal lines, if you want to replace it. Making the metric flares on the end of the lines can be a pain.

BTW, if even the line wrench rounds the nut, then the last resort (before a torch) is a FLAT jawed wise-grip.

[nadman009]

Thanks for the all the help. I ordered those flare nuts, and flaring one line and putting it on it seems like I'm back on track. I could use some pictures or an explanation as to how the rear calipers go back together though...I've rebuilt all 4 with not too much trouble but I'm not sure how the e-brake mechanisms go back(the wedge thing has got me stumped). The pins and wedges that connect the calipers to their brackets are no problem really, but its just the rods on the rear ones that makes me regret forgetting pictures. Any help is appreciated.