Brake hose removal hints

[txSteve]

I cannot get the brake hoses removed. Anyone have some hints? Surely I am missing something simple. They seem seized. I have applied tons of PB multiple times and still no luck. Please help.

[txSteve]

To clarify... This is on the brake line end; they are already removed from the calipers. Also, I was unable to remove the center hose in the rear.

[124JOE]

pull the clip out and pull the feed side a bit
put vice grips on both sides
dont move the steel line cut the hose and spin that end

[124ADDHE]

Heat with torch and then shock with water or the PB, repeat. Good luck!

[majicwrench]

With due respect to other opinions, vise grips will ruin it, if it is not crushed and stripped already. You need high quality tubing wrenches, Snap On is THE BEST BAR NONE. Heat is a wonderful thing, tapping with hammer and punch helps loosen everything, some sort of spray lube helps, and then patience helps too. I can't remember the last time I couldn't get one loose.
Keith

[vandor]

>With due respect to other opinions, vise grips will ruin it, if it is not crushed and stripped already.

Often they already are. In those situation STRAIGHT-JAWED vise-grips is the only thing that works.

>You need high quality tubing wrenches, Snap On is THE BEST BAR NONE.

I totally agree. But most people can't afford to buy one just to do the job once, and even if we could, the Snap-On truck does not stop at most houses I have Craftsman line wrenches, and they work 95% of the time.

[txSteve]

For the rear ones, the piece where the brake line and brake hose meet is completely cylindrical. As opposed to, for example, the front ones which actually has flat sides I can at least get an open end wrench on.

For the rear ones I have tried locking that piece in vice grips and, but it just spins.

Thanks all for introducing me to the idea of the tube/flare-nut wrench. I will definitely be shopping for some of these this week to see if they help out.

[131]

If they're already rounded a flare spanner won't work. You may be better off sourcing new flare nuts and starting again. Most brake workshops can supply piping to whatever length you want and will flare the ends for you. If their is any hex left on the nut, a flare spanner with vice grips clamped on to it to prevent the ends spreading has worked for me in the past.

[spider2081]

Although they are only sold at the better tool stores, Vise Grip actually markets a a special series of Vise Grips specifically designed to remove rounded nuts and fittings. One jaw has an opening that sits on 2 sides of the nut and the other side looks like a bent finger knuckle and presses on the nut flat opposite the other jaw. I paid about $25 for the smallest size that fits brake lines. Average quality look alike vise grips will only make the problem worse. Same with line wrenches they need to be quality tools.

I believe heat and penetrating oil and patience is the key. I pay special attention to not twisting the line with the fitting once its breaks loose. I spray the penetrating oil between the back of the fitting and the line and work it back and forth with out forcing it.

[TX82FIAT]

Some sound advice. heat, vice grips..try to always use good quality flare nut wrenches unless the nuts are trashed. Once nuts are trashed you may be forced to replace lined or cut and flare old lines with new nuts.

The brake shop advice will save you a few bucks since a new complete set of brake lines cost $110 - $135. If it is only the rear brake lines that are trashed there is a rear compensator in a lot of our cars. This is good because you may only need new rear lines or rear line work if the front nuts are still in good shape.

Let me know if you need new rear brake lines. I have some rear brake lines on a shelf in the garage someplace and would sell them at a reasonable price that would save you a couple dollars.

Ray

[baltobernie]

Someone posted a tip on this forum last year regarding this issue.

If the flats on the nut are not yet rounded off, Vice-Grips on the outside of flare wrench jaws can tighten the grip, often making the nut removable and reusable.

Whoever originally posted this ... thanks It works!

[txSteve]

Mick, its not that they have become rounded. These were made as round. You can clearly tell the difference between the front and rear here.

[aj81spider]

I only suggest this because I did it. It may not be your problem - however make sure you are trying to rotate the right thing. On my hoses the sequence of connections/fixtures was:

rubber hose --> hex head --> mounting plate --> cylindrical section (with or without flat spot) --> small hex head/flare nut --> hard line

I spent an embarassing period of time trying to separate the hex head on the caliper side of the mounting plate from the cylindrical section before I realized they were part of the same assembly. The small hex head on the flare nut was hidden behind the mounting plate and I didn't see it until I was trying to get PB blaster into the non-existant joint between the hex head and the cylinder.

Trust me - the big hex head and the cylinder will never separate!

[txSteve]

You may be right A.J. I may be doing exactly what you say. I was thinking the cylindrical section is a separate piece to which both the brake line and brake hose attached. But it sounds like you are saying that it is actually part of the brake hose?

[aj81spider]

You are - the cylindrical section is part of the hose. There is a flare nut (10 mm?) that screws into the cylindrical section.