Timing

[Flyingthere]

I have a question regarding the timing on my 78 124 with a elect dizzy from a 2ltr 79. My car has never run well at 10 BTC on points or now with elec. I am wondering if it possible that the rotor is not lined up correctly causing me to have to run at 20 BTC to get it to run and idle correctly?

[baltobernie]

Bob, I'd first suggest that you check and make sure that both cam wheels are aligned with the pointer holes when the crank is at TDC. If you've skipped a tooth, fix this. Next, with the engine at TDC, remove the dizzy cap. The rotor should be pointing to the relative position of the internal #4 terminal.

The rotor is indexed to fit the shaft only one way, likewise the cap. So methinks its something else. Old and new dizzys are identical regarding static timing. They have different advance mechanisms, but nothing to suggest that you'd need to have either one that far out of factory spec in order to get the car to run.

[So Cal Mark]

that sounds like cam timing is a tooth off

[Flyingthere]

Mark, thanks for the response do you mean on the dist. or on the actual cam. My timing marks all align cams and fly wheel.

[Flyingthere]

We did follow the manual to the letter, TDC with the marks all aligned. Then line up the back of the rotor with the notch and the rotor pointing to no. 4 . It ran like a sick puppy and the timing was on but sick. Turned the dust punter clockwise and it all smoothed out, but the timing is out of wack. Other than the rotor not being spot on I am at a loss.

[baltobernie]

Maybe a PO rebuilt the top end and confused the cam wheels. The intake and exhaust are indexed differently. On the back side of the intake pulley is cast the letter "A". "S" is the identifying mark on the exhaust pulley.

[Flyingthere]

Thanks I will try to get out to the garage later and check it out. I know that the engine was rebuilt at ont time long ago. I will let you know what I find.

[124JOE]

also check the oil aux gear
when doing the timming its to be at 1oclock position

[vandor]

I would check that:
-When the notch is at the TDC mark the piston is really at TDC
-The distributor is advancing correctly

Low compression engines usually like a lot of advance, so if your engine is stock it will run OK with more advance, however it should be smooth with 10 degrees advance at idle.
Be sure the vacuum advance is disconnected when checking timing.

[Flyingthere]

Caaba I do not have vacuum advance hooked up as the dizzy came off of a 79 and my car is a 78. I thought the vacuum advance would not work on the pre electric ignition am I not correct.

[vandor]

Caaba I do not have vacuum advance hooked up as the dizzy came off of a 79 and my car is a 78. I thought the vacuum advance would not work on the pre electric ignition am I not correct.

Sure, it would work, I had it hooked up on my 1800.
Ideally you would use 'ported vacuum', which is a nipple on the carb that only has vacuum off idle. However I have run cars (with stock compression ratio) with the vacuum advance module connected to manifold vacuum, and I noticed no ill effects other than a slight miss at idle.
All this assuming your vacuum advance actually works If it does it will noticeably help mileage on the highway.

[Flyingthere]

Awesome I will look for a port and hook it up. Currently I do not have a miss but will chance it. If you ever get your Fiat heading south and end up in Houston let me know I will introduce you to my ride.

[vandor]

Bob,

I was at the Hillcountry tour 2 weeks ago
I'd like to go to Houston sometime, we'll see maybe if we get a warm spell this winter.

[Flyingthere]

I am sorry I missed the Hillcountry run, take care.