1800 Intake Manifold Removal

[tartan18]

I am trying to take off my intake manifold so that I can get better access to the starter (which needs to be replaced). As I just put the engine back together with a new head gasket I don't want to disassemble it again. I've been able to take off the five nuts on the studs but I can't figure out how to get to the two nuts that are underneath the center of the manifold. I've tried a wobble extension but I can't get the nuts loose. They are 13mm nuts -- right ?? Any advice or hints would be appreciated.

My car is a 1975 but the 1800 engine is (I think) a 1977 (based on the number stamped above the oil filter housing.

[vandor]

I never had trouble taking the 2 center bolts off using a u-joint and a short 13mm socket.
However, you should not need to take the manifold off an 1800 to get the starter out. I've had to take the alternator off on some cars that had the alternator on the driver's side, but never had to take the intake off.

[pastaroni34]

Yeah, no need to remove manifold.. don't even have to take the alternator off, the whole thing can come out without removing anything.. these are the things you learn when you change a starter 6 times because the Autozone rebuilt starter stinks!

If its still difficult, I drop the center steering link and bring it out from the bottom.

Small hands help!

But! If your manifold it still coming off, center bolts shouldn't be any more difficult than the others, though you may get caught on the oil separator..

[124JOE]

the tool to use is a 13mm shorty wrench

BTW i normaly remove everything when doing a starter
rad,alt,fuelpump,then starter

[So Cal Mark]

no need to remove all of that stuff to get a starter out. Merely take out the 3 bolts holding the starter and drop it out the bottom

[tartan18]

Thanks to all of you. I do need to take the intake manifold off because I need to replace the mechanical fuel pump gasket and adjust the throttle linkage. I acquired the necessary wobble extension and a universal socket adapter. Having access from the top of the starter will make it easier to take off the power connections. I do plan on taking Mark's advice and then dropping the starter from the bottom.

Much appreciate the expert advice. Now I just hope my hands are small enough to get the thing out -- then I am looking forward to getting a new gear reduction unit.

Jim ...

[So Cal Mark]

after removing a stock-size starter, you will love the little gear reduction unit

[tartan18]

Mark,I cannot figure out how to remove what I assume is the original starter. There is simply no way I can get either a wrench or a socket on these bolts. Here are a few pictures to illustrate my situation.

This is from the top of the engine. You can see the bolt but no nut on it.



Here is a picture from under the car. There is no access clearance to get a wrench or socket on this bolt.

[img
P1010006 by Galant_Knight, on Flickr][/img]

A close up of the bottom bolt. But even if I could get this one out I can't figure out how to get the upper two bolts out. Do I need a special offset wrench or something else? One final picture

[img
P1010003 by Galant_Knight, on Flickr][/img]

Thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it.

Jim ...

[narfire]

The starter removel I believe is one of the most dreaded things to do. Saying that it does get done. You have to access the bolts from under the car. You'll need several extensions and perhaps a universal on the socket. If I can remember,the ratchet is somewheres3-4 feet back to get a line that works on the bolts. Someone holding a light from above helps as they open the cans of instalation fluid

[pastaroni34]

Here's how I do it:

There are 3 bolts, all M8 with 13mm heads, 2 on the top, one on the bottom. The top inside (toward the transmission) will be completely blind. The other 2, you can see from below.

I like to use a deep 13mm socket, then a universal, and then 2 long extensions (at least 18") I get under the car, feet forward. With my left hand I guide the socket on the head, and use my right hand to turn the ratchet.

I do this all by feel, you can't really get a good look. Since you have the intake off, you may be able to get a helper to guide the socket on for you.

[Fiat88]

PIA job but I've done it twice! The second time was a little easier because I had a gear reduction starter but it is do-able, get the top bolt from the top . the other 2 from the bottom. You can do it!

[124JOE]

so there i was "back in 96"just picked up the fiat from reno,i got it from my dad,he found on the road and"he was a tow truck driver"he grabed it up.it sat in the desert for 2 years"waiting"finaly he told me i could have it.so i jumped on a bus.
cleaned it all up and got it running wheels and tires came quick with a top.temp registration and i was off.
i drove 10 hours and was stoping for gas again and zzinngg "no starter"out in WY 11pm at some gas station.
i was forced to just drive it back without a starter.i push started it and other times i left it run.
when i retured home i found three small bolts and doubble nuts that had failled and the starter backed out.
the threads were fine but the three bolts were wrong.so located the right size bolts and remounted it.
i have changed it once since then.

good luck to you.

[fillupd]

For the top bolt on the starter I used a ratchet with a handle that folds back from the ratchet head. That way just the ratchet head goes to the bolt on top of the starter and the handle is left sticking out into the engine compartment. Like said above, a helper to hold the socket on that bolt would help if you don't have a fold up ratchet.
A "gear wrench" (the box end wrench that ratchets)in a size 13mm comes in handy for many things under the hood also. Get the ones with the angle on them. You'll save time getting that manifold back on.

[131]

The workshop I used to work in had 2 extensions for this job, 1 a 3/8" drive and the other 1/2", both 1 metre long. They both had a swivel end that had less play than using a normal uni/swivel. I've seen cars with holes cut in the floor/gearbox hump with a holesaw to make getting the bolts out easier, not pretty!

[So Cal Mark]

I use a long extension with a swivel socket from underneath. Lowering the trans mount crossmember might help you access the upper bolts