Clutch noise while engaging.

[dtjk592]

My 77 Spider has recently added a new noise to its repertoire. Earlier this year i replaced the clutch cable due to a stiff noisy clutch no problems all summer, now about 6000 miles later and after a few weeks of inactivity the clutch makes a sort of metallic clang or click when engaged abruptly and especially from a stop. If you are very gingerly with engaging the clutch it wont make any noise, but it is present with abrupt shifts in every gear. The noise also seems to be outside the vehicle as it is more audible when shifting next to a building or low garden wall. Any ideas?

[TX82FIAT]

have you checked your clutch adjustment? The cables are under constant tention and the cable may have come slightly lose or just need an adjustment. Is the cable routed the same way it was originally? I start with checking the adjustment and the cable free play. You said it is more of a clang and not a wine like the bearing might make.

[dtjk592]

Yes its definitely not a whine its a brief metallic click or clang not very loud, audible but just enough to be noticeable.

[redcars]

You said it was out side the vehicle. Have you checked your u-joints.

[dtjk592]

I haven't whats a good procedure for diagnosing them. The noise is only on the engage no knocks or noises of any kind under hard acceleration once the clutch is fully engaged everything is normal.

[redcars]

To check u-joints. Jack car up. While holding onto the drive shaft on each side of a u-joint twist back and forth with each hand and see if there is play in the joint. If it is bad you will most likely be able to feel it. You can also grab the drive shaft by the u-joint close to the diff and try to shake it and see if it is loose and moves. Any movement at these points equals a bad u-joint.

[dtjk592]

Ok just checked it there is no play on either side of the joint the two halves of the shaft move in unison. The shaft as a whole has about 1/2 inch of play in it rotationally but no side to side movement or up and down.

[124JOE]

if it makes noise when the car is off and pushing the clutch
then it wont be the u joint
double check both ends of your cable
make sure there seated corectly
if there ok then your cluch fork for pressing the berring is worn out
and skiping the edge

[boogiedude]

It sounds like your firewall is cracked. The noise you're hearing is the crack shifting. get up under the dash with a light and check where the cable passes through the firewall

[dtjk592]

Just checked that no crack around the penetration for the clutch cable feels solid there.

[dtjk592]

It makes no noise while the car is off clutch action is smooth, and during normal driving it usually doesn't make the noise if the clutch is gradually engaged, it only happens during quick engages like on a steep hill or pulling away from a stop. It occurs in other gears but only during abrupt shifts.

[TX82FIAT]

Sounds like your confident the cable has the right amount of play before the clutch engages and you have checked everything from the clutch fork on the pedal, through the firewall with appropriate mount to side of transmission and transmission clutch fork is set with appropriate spring keeping the fork taught while not engaged. if that is the case and it is still making noise i would move inside to the bearing and clutch plate. Sounds like the issue only occurs under load.

[manoa matt]

Here is what I would check: Remove the rubber gasket at the clutch throw out arm. Look inside to see if any of the clutch cover "finger springs" tips are broken off. Wiggle the clutch throw out arm to see if its positively engaged on the pivot ball at the opposite end of the arm Sometimes the clip arms that engage the pivot ball break off. Also check the throwout arm for cracks or signs of bending/fatigue.

The clutch throwout bearing should NOT be in constant contact with the clutch cover finger springs. There should be about 2mm-3mm or 1/16" to 1/8" distance between the contact face of the bearing and the springs. If the throwout bearing is in constant contact with the clutch cover springs, it will wear out prematurely. You may be able to reach the bearing to spin it, you may need a long pencil and use the eraser to spin the bearing to listen. If its rough and gravely sounding it may be the throw out bearing.

The clutch pedal is also known to bend over and put a side load on the cable which will lead to premature failure of the cable. The clutch pedal should have a large heavy return spring attached to it up in the pedal box. The clutch throwout arm should also have a return spring attached with a "C" shaped hook further back on the transmission case housing.

If all the above checks out you then have to dig deeper. Its either time for a new clutch friction plate or a new pilot bearing. Both of witch involve pulling the transmission and clutch. If it turns out to be the clutch plate or the pilot bearing, buy the clutch kit as an assembly with a new clutch cover, friction disc, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing.

[dtjk592]

Thanks alot for all the detailed replies. It looks like i have my weekend cut out for me. I will take a closer look then at the whole clutch assembly.

[131]

There should be about 2mm-3mm or 1/16" to 1/8" distance between the contact face of the bearing and the springs. If the throwout bearing is in constant contact with the clutch cover springs it will wear out prematurely.

Also, without sufficient freeplay the crankshaft is pushed forward by the diaphram spring tension causing premature wear to crankshaft thrust bearings. The same thing occurs when sitting at traffic lights in gear for long periods of time with the clutch pedal depressed.