Cold starting a little tough

[MrWampus]

Now that the weather has turned cool for the first time this season, I have noticed that my little mistress is reluctant to get out of bed on cool mornings (below about 55 degrees). I did a quick search on the forum and found lots of references to the cold start valve. I looked at my downloaded shop manual and see that it looks pretty straight forward to replace the valve. My question is, do I need to replace it entirely or can it just be cleaned and reinstalled? She fires right up immediately when it's warm or on cool days after she has run a few minutes. I also noticed that if I turn the key to on and leave it there for 15-20 seconds before trying to crank it, it does a little better but it still takes a few tries before firing. Thoughts?

[MrWampus]

HOLY MOLY! I just went to IAP and found out the cold start valve is $297! I hope this is something that can be cleaned and reinstalled if that is indeed the problem.

[131]

Do a search, you can get them for less than half that, whether they're any good is a different matter. Work out if yours is stuffed before throwing cash at it.

[vandor]

Have you actually diagnosed that it is faulty? It could be a wiring problem, or the Thermo Time Switch, which turns on the CSI, may be bad. You can connect power directly to the CSI and see if it clicks, if it does it is almost certainly good.
For what it's worth, we still have a few cold start injectors at the old price of $99:

http://stores.auto-ricambi.net/-strse-1 ... Detail.bok

[rlux4]

Have you checked that the cold start valve is bad? Plus, remember that it's a two part system, it and the thermo/time switch, which signals the ECU. First you should check that you're getting the signal from the ECU via the thermo/time switch. Plug a noid light into the connector (a test light or VOM would work, but not nearly as well). You can borrow one from the auto parts stores that have the program for loaning tools. If you're getting the signal your thermo/time switch is good. Next, pull the injector, point it toward a container and have a helper crank the engine. See if it's spraying a fine mist. Of course, these diagnostics need to be done when it's cold.
Ron

Edit: I see Csaba beat me, but I'll just add this anyway.

[vandor]

Have you checked that the cold start valve is bad? Plus, remember that it's a two part system, it and the thermo/time switch, which signals the ECU.

Just to clarify, the ECU provides +12V to the CSI and TTS while the starter motor is running.

[majicwrench]

I'll have to look at a diagram, but usually, the ECU does not provide the 12 volts, the ECU grounds the circuit. Have to find a diagram in the AM and take a peek.
Ketih

[MrWampus]

Update:

First thing this morning, I did the really simple stuff first. I took a can of electronic contact cleaner and sprayed both contacts (the wire and the CS valve). I noticed that the connection didn't feel really tight and that could be part of the problem. After I sprayed and dried the contacts, I snapped it back together tight as tight as I could make the connection. Then I tried to start it and it fired right up without hesitation. The temp this morning is 52 so that's not really all that cold, but I think it had difficulty starting over the last several mornings at a very similar temp. Could be I have fixed it, but I'll check it again on some cool mornings and see.

Thanks for the advice and the series of next steps in case this doesn't do the trick.

[So Cal Mark]

if the connection isn't good, you can always replace the pigtail.

[vandor]

I'll have to look at a diagram, but usually, the ECU does not provide the 12 volts, the ECU grounds the circuit. Have to find a diagram in the AM and take a peek.

In this case it's 12V. Actually the connection that has the wire from the ignition switch (hot during start) goes from one pin on the ECU straight to another, that goes to the TTS and CSI.