valve shims replacement

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lm48
Posts: 110
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:56 am
Your car is a: 1979 and 1980 spider
Location: Fort Myers

valve shims replacement

Post by lm48 »

Is 9 pm and I am still in the garage adjusting my valves. I have the head on the bench. The question is if I do not have the x of y tool from the repaire manual is there any other option to hold the valve in open position to access the shims? This is a 75 spider head. Thank you
azygoustoyou

Re: valve shims replacement

Post by azygoustoyou »

That tool that holds the valves open is really helpful. I just did mine two weeks ago. I asked my buddies if there was another way to do it and they said you should have the tool. I thought about making one. It didn't look like it would be that easy.
It would be cheaper to just buy it.
http://www.international-auto.com/index ... p&pid=5081
lm48
Posts: 110
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:56 am
Your car is a: 1979 and 1980 spider
Location: Fort Myers

Re: valve shims replacement

Post by lm48 »

I was not tryng to save $ but time. You are right I already put one in my shopping cart at IAP Thank you
azygoustoyou

Re: valve shims replacement

Post by azygoustoyou »

No I'm with you. If I could make one, I would have. It is a good thing to have a small pen magnet to grab the tappets. I used one of my sons long magnetix toys. I'm not sure if you ever did this before. I just learned myself. Anyways, after you install the tool you blow air into the groove to get the tappet to pop up and grab it with a magnet. Good luck. :P
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opus10583
Posts: 861
Joined: Tue May 03, 2011 7:13 am
Your car is a: 1978 CS1
Location: Westchester County, NY

Re: valve shims replacement

Post by opus10583 »

azygoustoyou wrote:No I'm with you. If I could make one, I would have. It is a good thing to have a small pen magnet to grab the tappets. I used one of my sons long magnetix toys. I'm not sure if you ever did this before. I just learned myself. Anyways, after you install the tool you blow air into the groove to get the tappet to pop up and grab it with a magnet. Good luck. :P
...Whoa!!!

I like that!

Thanks,
Mark
...Yes; I know what it means: Fabbrica Italiana Automobili Torino.

DOLCETTO: 1978 CS1; 10:1, DMS, 4-2-1...
ANDIAMMO: 2012 500 ABARTH

Acquista il Biglietto; Prendere la Gita! - Hunter S. Thompson
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Danq
Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:07 pm
Your car is a: 1981 2000 Spider
Location: North East Ohio

Re: valve shims replacement

Post by Danq »

Any pics of the procedure?
Dan
1981 spider 2000
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manoa matt
Posts: 3442
Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii

Re: valve shims replacement

Post by manoa matt »

The procedure can be done without the tool, but its a little tedious.

Remove the cam box and cam from cylinder head.
Remove old gasket and replace with a new one
Install cam and cam box on head with new gasket and torque down bolts, leave overnight (the new gasket will settle 1-2 thousands overnight)
Measure the clearance with a feeler gauge and write down the numbers
Do the math and add or subtract to find out what thickness shim should be in the bucket carrier
Remove hold down bolts so the cam and cam box can be lifted off
Replace the shims with what is required
Re-install cam box and cam on head and torque down
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azruss
Posts: 3659
Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI

Re: valve shims replacement

Post by azruss »

I made my own shim tools. the 2 fingered one i made back in the 70s. the crescent wrench i made a couple of years ago. needed it for doing the valve next to the dizzy.

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lm48
Posts: 110
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:56 am
Your car is a: 1979 and 1980 spider
Location: Fort Myers

Re: valve shims replacement

Post by lm48 »

With the cylinder head on the bench I had no issue of using IAP special tool to be able to replace the shims. After replacing all the shims with the correct size I turn the cams few times and re check the gaps. All gaps where into the specs. Few weeks later I had the chance to finish the engine and drop everything in the car. With out radiator in the car I just start the engine for 1-2 second and was a perfect sound. I install the radiator and start the engine. To my surprise after few seconds a noise started on the exhaust cam side. Was like metallic noise, few more seconds 10 to 15 the noise went away and the engine was really smooth. I removed the header valve covers for inspection and find on cylinder 3 the valve gap to be to small, ½ of what should be. The head had a valve job done by a professional shop but I did the shimming part. After the readjustment, the engine run at 750 rpm very smooth also at high RPM no sigh of distress. Was possible that some debris was stopping the valve on cylinder 3 from complete closing at the time of initial adjustment, this is what I believe happen.

With the head on the engine I had a hard time using the IAP tool on this particular cylinder. What I did I use a Chinese flat head screwdriver made from soft material, the one that bends all the time and not snap, grinded down to very thin and just pus the tip between the shim and cam. With the tip between the shim and cam the tool was very easy to use.
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