Racing on start

[Carsonh2]

Just swapped out a new 32/36 DFEV carb on my 1979 and as soon as it turns over, the car races to almost redline before I have the chance to kill the ignition. Messed around with the idle adjustment, but maybe I am missing something or doing it wrong? Please help!

[So Cal Mark]

there is a fast idle adjustment that is separate from the idle speed screw

[124JOE]

i think you may have it backwards on the idle speed screw
its turn it out untill it dont touch"backing it out"
then turn it in 2 turns

but i might be wrong.joe

[Carsonh2]

Messed around with all 3 screws, but cannot find anything that works. The closest I've got to an idle was around 2500, but as soon as the accelerator is tapped, the car runs away. The only other thing I got was an idle at about 5500 rpm, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. Baseline settings should be 2 turns on the mixture screw (middle screw facing towards driver side wheel well) and 1.5 turns in from full out on the idle speed (back side of carb near throttle linkage)? What position should the fast idle screw (behind choke) be engaged (screwed in) or disengaged (backed out) to start with and where should it be set to once the idle is set?

Mark, do you think it could be the fast idle adjustment, even if the car wont idle? Are there any particular vacuum leaks that could be causing the condition that need to be plugged? Frustrating stuff!

[gchocevar]

I did all the recommended adjustments in the posts and got the idle down from 3000 to 1700 then to a smooth steady 850 rpm. Even though I plugged the fast idle (eliminated) it was still keeping the throttle linkage from closing until I kicked the accelerator a few times beween shifts and deceleartion. The fast idle was still sticking intermitantly.

I removed the forked lever off the front of the carburator that is attached to the fast idle control, retained by a small nut and circlip. I replaced the lever with a similar ID and thickness washer, reinstalled the circlip and nut.

It now idles very smoothly at 850, and rpms drop as soon as I remove my foot off the accelerator.

Good luck,
Greg

[124JOE]

yes the choke plate should be fully open.that would crank up your throttle.
its on the back side of the choke unit pointing at the pass side on my carb

[Carsonh2]

Found the linkage was disconnected allowing the secondary to be open!

On top of that, I've got a large vacuum leak from a port under the EGR that is pointed towards the front drivers side corner. What is this port for, and what do I need to do to plug it?