Noisy clutch return spring on pedal

[minimike]

Anyone know of a cure for a noisy clutch pedal spring? This is inside the car on the pedal.

[opus10583]

Anyone know of a cure for a noisy clutch pedal spring? This is inside the car on the pedal.

"BOING" ?

I've had limited recent success with lithium grease, the tough part is getting it up between the "helper" link and the pedal bushing collar, where I believe the binding is occurring, without dis-assembly. 'Flat on my back under the dash needing three hands and an arm on my head' sort of stuff.

I'm going to try using a tuberculin syringe today.

Mark

[rrrrob]

I've used lithium grease that comes in a spray can with a directional tube. Same sort of setup as WD-40. Remember to stuff some old rags around incase of over spray and drape one in the peddles and floor incase of drips. This way you wont have to disassemble. Contorting yourself to see up in there is another thing.

Good luck
Rob

[opus10583]

Didn't get back to this today, fixed and broke an number of other things, half an hour ago it was as bad as yesterday t=0. I guess I hit a right spot, not likely what I thought.

[minimike]

Opus,
Eastchester as in the Bronx? or further north near Portchester?

I"ll get a can of spray lithium and try it. I figured greasing it might help, but surely I'm no acrobat to reach up there.

[opus10583]

Opus,
Eastchester as in the Bronx? or further north near Portchester?

West-southwest of Portchester, several miles northwest of Eastchester the Bronx.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=westches ... 29,r:2,s:0

I'm where Eastchester, Scarsdale and Greenburgh meet, the Bronx River Parkway is my backyard test route.

I'm leery of spraying indiscriminately under there, moreso fearing the toxic dust-solvent fallout.

I'll take one more try on my back with the grease before I turn it over to a "professional". It certainly is annoying, completely harshes an otherwise smooth ride.

Ciao,
Mark

[minimike]

I'm thinking that if I don't grease it, it's gonna snap and leave me with a real headache.

[opus10583]

I'm thinking that if I don't grease it, it's gonna snap and leave me with a real headache.

Me too, but I understand the clutch return spring proper is enough to get one around, and the pedal return spring replacement is more of a nuisance than a true PITA.

Ciao,
Mark

[manoa matt]

Competent engineers put the springs there for a reason.

If the spring at the pedal is making noise you may have another more serious issue. Look at the firewall where the cable passes through for cracks. This area flexes every time the pedal is pushed and the fire wall is prone to cracking. Also look at the fork on the end of the pedal that engages the clutch cable. The forks on the end of the pedal are prone to bending over, which then puts a side load on the cable.

I had a squeaky spring for a while until the pedal forks finally bent all the way over. Once I removed the pedal, straightened out the forks and reinforced it, the squeak stopped.

[grittracing]

what about spring mine keeps hanging up pedal stays down part way sometimes ? any ideas

[seabeelt]

Whe was the last time the cable was lubricated and/or replaced?

[opus10583]

Competent engineers put the springs there for a reason.

The imputation of their competence is undermined by the rest of your assertions:

[...] the firewall [...] flexes every time the pedal is pushed and [...] is prone to cracking. Also [...] The forks on the end of the pedal are prone to bending over, which then puts a side load on the cable.

...My point was, and is, if the spring fails it's not a stranding event, and one can limp home without out it, not that its superfluous or vestigial.

Thanks,
Mark

[opus10583]

Competent engineers put the springs there for a reason.

The imputation of their competence is undermined by the rest of your assertions:

[...] the firewall [...] flexes every time the pedal is pushed and [...] is prone to cracking. Also [...] The forks on the end of the pedal are prone to bending over, which then puts a side load on the cable.

...My point was, and is, if the spring fails it's not a stranding event and one can limp home without it, not that it's superfluous or vestigial.

Thanks,
Mark

[manoa matt]

My point was and is: Both springs are needed for "proper" operation of the pedal and clutch system. Yes, you can get home without one or the other, in fact many owners have been driving around without one or the other for many years. They either don't know or don't care how the pedal should feel and perform. With both springs in place and a pedal fork in correct alignment, the system is simple and works beautifully.

"Competent engineers put the springs there for a reason." First off this statement was not meant as an attack on anyone's intelligence, rather simply: The clutch system was designed with 2 springs and needs them both. With ANY product, Engineers and designers come up with the ideal initial design which is ultimately critiqued by the lawyers and accountants who look to reduce production costs by eliminating redundant springs.

The heavy spring at the pedal is needed for balance and return of the pedal, and a spring with the proper rate should be used, ie. the original OEM spring. The spring at the clutch throw-out arm is less critical in regards to its spring rate, its main function is to keep the throw-out bearing from constant contact with the finger springs on the clutch cover. Almost any extension type spring could be used here.

Yes, the fire wall is prone to flex and crack, and the pedal is prone to deformation, the engine is prone to weep oil from every gasket, the shock towers are prone to collapse inward, the cross-member bolts are prone to pulling out of the frame rails, The body panels are prone to trap water at the seams causing corrosion from the inside out, etc. etc. etc. All of which does bring into question the "competency" of the engineers, however EVERY car, bus, truck, tractor, and trailer has inherent design or engineering flaws that are overlooked by competent engineers.

In the engineer's defense, one must realize and appreciate these are 30+ year old cars, and the majority of the aforementioned "design shortfalls" are a direct result of the care and attention they have received over the years which influence how the components age. The expected service life of these cars was not likely designed for 30+ years and the problems which materialize after years of use and abuse should be attributed to exceeding the expected service life of the car as opposed to design or engineering oversights.

[gchocevar]

Matt,

I read your response on keeping a 30 year old car in spec. Tough to do. You mentioned leaning shocks towers. I recently went to get my 79 restoration aligned and they could not bring the camber in negative. They were a couple of "old schoolers' and mentioned that new springs would bring these in more negative so they could back out the tie rods more positive. During my restore I put in new a-arms, bushings and shocks. Does this new spring advice sound right?

Thanks,
Greg