Carburettor Mixture issue

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124JOE
Posts: 3141
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
Location: SO. WI

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by 124JOE »

just for giggles pop your dis cap remove the plate and check your springs
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
ch33kster

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by ch33kster »

Hi, cheers for all the responses.

Can someone please tell me how to measure the correct float position and what it should be at on a 32ADF.

Charles
ch33kster

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by ch33kster »

Over the past couple of evenings I've been trying to get the car running correctly with the 32 ADF carb and had no joy what so ever.

I decided to put the original (and clean) 26 DHSA on to the manifold. At first everything seemed a little better and as the temperature built up..... voila, it started playing up again and the engine started accelerating again, bugga.

So the next step was for me to take the manifold off and put on another stock 1800 manifold on. Taking the inlet manifold off on the '69 is a pain in the back, emptying the coolant, having to remove the fuel pump, distributor and the blasted breather housing that's a nightmare to get off (and fiddley to get back on).

With the 1800 manifold installed I put on the 32 ADF and fired her up.

Same issue starts at temperature. The engine can be revved.

The carb seems to be taking in far to much air, wouldn't enlarging the inlet jets make the issue persist?

I've even tried drip feeding the fuel, by-passing the mechanical pump. this doesn't seem to make any difference.

Although the timing is spot on, could theirratic behaviour be down to bad / worn contacts / condensers on the distributer??

Can someone please tell me how to measure the correct float position and what it should be at on a 32ADF.

Thinking of buying a brand new 34 ADF but forking out $400+ is quite a lot if the issue is still there.

Charles
User avatar
124JOE
Posts: 3141
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
Location: SO. WI

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by 124JOE »

ch33kster wrote:Hi, cheers for all the responses.

Can someone please tell me how to measure the correct float position and what it should be at on a 32ADF.

Charles
holding the top plate vertical
the float should be set at 7mm"closed"
holding the top plate horizontal"normal flat"
the float should be at 14mm


HOPE THIS HELPS
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
ch33kster

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by ch33kster »

Cheers Joe124!
holding the top plate vertical
the float should be set at 7mm"closed"
holding the top plate horizontal"normal flat"
the float should be at 14mm
Where do I measure to and from for 7mm / 14mm. When the float is dropped (loose) between the top of the float and the gasket????
User avatar
124JOE
Posts: 3141
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
Location: SO. WI

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by 124JOE »

yes top of the float to the bottom of the top plate

your yery welcome
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
Danno

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by Danno »

Yer gonna blow your engine, kid.
unless you are missing something written on your tach...
x100 not x1,000
ch33kster

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by ch33kster »

Danno wrote:Yer gonna blow your engine, kid.
unless you are missing something written on your tach...
x100 not x1,000
Noted. :D
sptcoupe
Posts: 987
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:25 pm
Your car is a: 1972 124 Sport Coupe

Re: Carburettor Mixture issue

Post by sptcoupe »

Lot's of good advice on this post, but I noted one recommendation to use high pressure air. I always recommend using only carb cleaner spray under pressure from the can, and that you do not use high pressure air. High pressure air mis-directed can turn your acel pump diaphram into a balloon that won't work well after that, and on many carbs, inlcuding IDFs and DCNFs, there are "dead end" passages. If whatever debris causing the blockage is sitting at the entrance to one of these passages, you can blow it up into that passage by using high pressure air, and never get it out. The result can be some pretty strange, inconsistent performance issues that will mimic other symptoms and have you chasing them forever.

Rather than high pressure air to move debris around to get to it, I use a turkey baster. Yep, just your routine WalMart version will work. With the carb still filled with gas (and on the car, partially disassembled with emulsion tubes and jets and the carb top removed), put the end of the baster over the emulsion tube holder and gently push air through the baster. Do the same with the bleed back circuit and the idle jet circuits. You will see gas moving through the carb. After one or two pulses, wait a few seconds, as dirt will often take a moment to settle out after you have moved the gas around. The gentle pulse of airmoving the gas around will move most any type of debris, including metal, and not damage you carb or cause a terminal blockage issue in the many circuits in the carb. This also has the advantage of being able to do it by partially disassembling the carb on the car. You'll be surprised at what you will see appear in your float bowl(s) or on the throttle plate(s).
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