carb, distributor or "Nut behind the wheel"?

[Jaysonfiat]

Just got a "free" 76 124 California car(uncle gave up trying to pass emissions there and parked it). hasn't run in 12 years but now that I got it running, I can't seem to get it to idle without stalling (if I set to 0deg) or hesitating/backfiring under accel/load when I set the timing at around (it bounces around a little) 10deg. accel pump seems to squirt fuel into carb when I manually press it in. New fuel pump, filter and sending unit (tank is clean, rust-free).
Do I just go electronic ignition kit and toss the points, then look into the carb? or do I try and get it all running well first? Anybody know any good shops that work on these near Naperville, IL?

Oh yea, and it bucks like a bronco at a rodeo if I don't rev it pretty high while letting the clutch out or have to ride the clutch a bit more than I'd like to get a smooth ride. Once it gets a good resonance going, it wants to keep building and I have to back off to stop it. Is it me or the car? engine or drivetrain?

Sorry for all the questions. Seems like a fun project so far...

[So Cal Mark]

is the fuel fresh? Have you cleaned the carb? I would expect the idle jet to be gummed up if you haven't cleaned it after sitting so long. Are the points gapped correctly? Are they rusty or dirty on the surfaces?

[maytag]

Mark is right about the fuel.
But this sure sounds like an ignition problem to me. Particularly the part of bucking, and then wanting to keep building....

If you plan to go to an electronic distributor, now would be the best time to do it. But there is nothing wrong with points, if set correctly.
If you are keeping the points, clean 'em, then set the gap properly. Then you need to clean the 'P' outta the distributor points-plate, weights & springs. make sure they are moving freely. (does a '76 cali car have vacuum advance?) Do you have a timing light that will allow you to match / map the advance as it comes in? (the light will have a dial on it, allowing you to dial-in advance on it) You need to make sure the advance is coming in... and based on your description, that it is GOING BACK OUT TOO!

[Jaysonfiat]

Thanks! Cap rotor and points are new. Fuel new and clear.no vac advance, just centrifugal...which could be the prob. just used carn cleaner spray and sea foam to clean carb.bowl is clean too. Tachometer doesn't work well either (jumps around)there are two green wires near coil but not attached to anything..not sure if they are for secondary points or something else and dont seem to find them on wiring diagram.

[maytag]

you should have a dual-points setup on this. If you don't, then someone has "converted" it to single points. I'ts not complicated, a simple removal of one set really. Search this forum and you'll find lots of info on that.

Make sure you have a condenser on the points. If you don't, that'll be a problem.

Have you set dwell & gap on the points?

I still think your problem likely lies in the advance mechanism. clean it up and make sure it is working well.

[majicwrench]

Idle,off-idle and accel issues on these is very often, like Mark said, the idle/low speed jet in the carb. Any good diagram of your carb will show it. Pull it out and clean it good. My 72 has one for the primary and one for the seconday. Anytime mine sits for more than a couple months is pretty good odds they are plugged---again. I am very good at cleaning them
Keith

[124JOE]

your timing needs to be firm and not kind of slopy
my 78 came with dual-points.they say thats un-needed
i was told to go buy a GM recurve kit. it has the springs
you want the smallest black ones!the rest of the parts you dont need.
even if you went electric ignition youll still need to do these
unless your buying a distibutor(dizzy)

i have the fireball 3000 from vick autosports.com

HOPE THIS HELPS joe

[Jaysonfiat]

Ok thanks! Found the sedondary slow-idle set screw on the carb. dwell was off again and reset. I can't find the mechanism that changes over from starting to running points and think the prev. owner removed it. Even so, I can get it to idle well or run/accel well but not both. Perhaps you are right and the springs on the advance could be the issue. My dad (ie:co-owner) thinks the bearing in the dizzy is the issue but it's his "gut" feeling. Electronic ignition is sounding pretty good to me b/c summer is almost half over and I want to drive this car more than just around the neighborhood (ie:not farther than I care to have to walk home or push it )

[124JOE]

if you pull the dizzy cap and turn the rotor you can fell the springs
if its weak around the normal position or only returns if you push it
then its the springs

[normanmanske]

if ur near a autozone the electronic dizzy is like 170 but u still need a set of wires router and cap and yes the cap is different just found that out today just did a electronic dizzy swap today my self still cant get my caer to idle right but im thinking that just may be a vacuum issue or carb

[joelbert2k]

I had the bucking problem in my 70 Sport coupe. I read somewhere that it was caused by a lean condition. I don't remember if it was the main jet or idle jet though.

Joel

[Jaysonfiat]

Oh man, just wrote a long message and somehow deleted it!

Advance springs and cams look fine. finally get timign steady but now getting stalling/backfire when setting idle lower. Set dwel and gap and both are good. When do I just go and get the elec. ignition and forget about tweaking this anymore? Should I buy a new carb? it's got the California one (32ADFA I think) now, which is about 15 years old. Also has catalytic converter...keep it or chuck it? I'm in Illinois and the 76 didnt have cats except in cali if I'm right. Car has 130Kmi (30K since engine rebuild 18yr ago). What would you do?

[majicwrench]

Did you find and clean both your idle/low speed jets??

You said you can get it to idle well, or run/accel well, how are you accomplising this?? Would be good clues.

Personally, it will run fine with the points, they are simple, they work. Get it running right, then start modifying stuff.

Carb is simple and can be fixed. Again, personally, get it running, then if you decide you really need one...

Cat, for now, leave it on. Get it running, then....

[Jaysonfiat]

I'm not sure how to clean the jets, other than backing them out and spraying carb cleaner in there. I think I've closed off all open vacuum hoses but maybe I need to revisit that and look for cracks/close off egr etc. Is it normal when you move the timing(rotate the dizzy) for the engine to take a seconds or so to settle down or is that a sign of a problem? Also from 0deg to 10 deg feels like a few milimeters and its' so easy for me to overshoot the marks by moving it too much. My dad insists that backfiring through the carb means the valve timing is wrong and that it can't be just ignition timing but I've read a few posts on here that beg to differ.

[majicwrench]

Set the timing to 10deg BTDC and then leave it.
Check the cam timing, it is easy to do, any book will show you, tons of posts on here about how to do it.
Pull the idle/low speed jets and spray thru them with carb cleaner. Take a strand of copper wire and make sure they are clear. Spray carb cleaner into holes you took jets out of. Got you safety glasses on right?
Backfiring thru carb can be caused by many diff things. Set everything right to start with.
Keith