Manual Transmission Oil

[TronDD]

The additives in the oil can increase wear on the brass synchros in the trans.

Tim.

[Rascal]

Yes, the hardest part can be getting the filler plug open.
I did a short drive to warm it up so it drained quickly.
Fortunately, no metal in the drain plug sludge.
I got my pump for $7, made filling very easy. Well worth it to me.

I put in Redline MT90. It's supposed to be good for brass synchros.
I've read several other members here recommend it.

Shifting seems smoother and the transmission sounds a little quieter.
Maybe it's the $30 worth of oil effect.

[tartan18]

Excellent feedback. Thanks -- I think I will go with Redline MT90 my next transmission oil change.

[Adam]

I wise man told me to use Pennzoil syncromesh manual transmission fluid. It is designed for use in transmissions with yellow metal. It's specifically for GM and Chrysler so it's easy to find and costs a lot less than other alternatives. I tried to buy GL1 from the local Fiat mechanic, but he wanted $50 a quart so I was all for this alternative.

[ga.spyder]

After seeing a post here and the pix of the inside of Alvons tranny,I went with his reccomandation and switched to Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil in 50W.The tranny is waaay smoother shifting. A $12 transfer pump from Autozone makes the oil change very easy.

[pressonregardless]

I used the Transmission: NAPA SAE90 GL-1. Part# 65-201 about a month ago.
It cost about $14 for a gallon and it took the hesitation on 1-2 shift out. Plus, there is a little "shink-shink" sound (Ferrari like) now as before I always was extra careful as the Trans felt like paste was in the syncros. Stick with the MFG recommended.
Also the fill plug on the side was a 17mm and I had to purchase a box end as my Craftsman flare nut wrench spread it's jaws trying to loosen it. I think it had about 60ft lbs on it, I put it back with a mechanics' "tight enough" turn. Good Luck!

[baltobernie]

If you want to use a synthetic lubricant in your Spider transmission, go with Redline MTL, specifically made for this. I've recently switched to this from GL-1. About the same shifting performance once the car is hot, but the Redline much better for the first five miles. I think I'll drain some out after the season, to check for obvious wear.

[fiat218]

I put in Redline MT90 in my alfa

[DuganNukem]

Has anyone tried the Lucas Synthetic 75W-90 Gear Oil for their manual transmission? It says it has "synthesized additives" that insure less hear rattle, less whine, and longer bearing life. Also exceeds service level API GL-4, API GL-5, API MT-1. I have a 1972 with manual gearbox. Would this stuff be good or bad? Also, is there a recommended flushing agent? I would like to fill it up and run it with something to help clean out any metal. Then drain and replace.

I just bought the car and want to make sure I don't damage anything. Any help would be much appreciated!

[gm404]

Has anyone tried the Lucas Synthetic 75W-90 Gear Oil for their manual transmission? It says it has "synthesized additives" that insure less hear rattle, less whine, and longer bearing life. Also exceeds service level API GL-4, API GL-5, API MT-1. I have a 1972 with manual gearbox. Would this stuff be good or bad? Also, is there a recommended flushing agent? I would like to fill it up and run it with something to help clean out any metal. Then drain and replace.

I just bought the car and want to make sure I don't damage anything. Any help would be much appreciated!

Don't use anything that says GL5 or GL4+ on it.
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
In normal operation, the sulfur/phosphorous additive forms a black sacrificial coating on the gears and
anything it touches with a little pressure and temperature. As the gears turn, instead of wearing, the
sacrificial coating of additives is peeled off or worn off. This is normal and acceptable in all steel gears.
But when one or more of the surfaces is brass or another soft metal, the sacrificial coating is stronger
than the base metal, and instead of just peeling off, it takes with it a few microns of brass that it is
bound to. (...)
When we use a GL-5 product in a transmission that requires GL-4, we normally find 2 to 4 times as
much copper in the used oil as we would with a GL-4 product (with used oil analysis). Eventually the
synchronizers wear to the point that they no longer make contact with the other half of the cone,
bottoming out before stopping the opposing gear.