Removing the Crankshaft pulley in situ?

[divace73]

You like? I't the only way I could think of adjusting them while having a cover on.
How'd did you get it to view?

[mdrburchette]

I right clicked on your little red X, copied the URL into my google search and the picture showed up. I then right clicked on the picture, went into properties and copied the URL and pasted it between the Img brackets. I don't know why it didn't show up before, but it wouldn't for me until I went about it this way.

[divace73]

Ahh I think I know, I'll try another pic

I was copying the url in the address bar, not the picture itself
see if this works

[divace73]

Many thanks mdrburchette

[124cso]

Heat gentlemen heat, and my impact hooked up to 175 psi I'm sure didnt' hurt either, but heat is your friend. (Just in case your still fiddlling with it)

A bit brutal and certainly not good for a nitrite treated crank or the front seal !

[divace73]

for me it was much easier using the starter motor, woudln't know where to start with heat, might burn the car down???

[majicwrench]

Chain wrench, why make it so hard?

[divace73]

Hey majicwrench
I imagine it wont work with holding the wrench by hand?
What do you secure the wrench to, do you need to place the wrench agianst something solid, or would you slide it in a bar of some sort and use the the ground/chassis as leverage?
PS, I wish these forums had automatic spell check.

[redcars]

I've removed two crank pulleys this winter. I used a chain wrench on the pulley with each of them with a pipe added for leverage. It was a easy job by hand no heat no inpact wrench and good contorl of what you are doing.

Bob

[majicwrench]

Some chain "wrenches" have a place to insert a 1/2 drive breaker bar.Those are pretty cheap. Other, like mine, have a long (24") handle. Often I slide a pipe over that as well. Then I use a socket and I have a looooong 1/2 breaker bar. I often put a pipe over that as well. The longer lever you have the better control and less strain on the ole bod. Like Bob said, good control over everything. Would scare the crap out of me to use the starter motor.

I almost never use the ground/chassis as leverage. With long pipes, is pretty simple stuff. I do a lot of timing belts and balancers on a lot of diff cars, usually no big deal. Except for some Honda's then my 3/4" stuff comes out.

[divace73]

Thanks guys for the responses, I may look into getting one, the next time the job comes along.

[msheldon]

I am replacing most of the seals on my 1970 spider and I really need to install a new front crankshaft seal. I appreciate all of the advice given on how to do so! My question would be, what is the exact size of the crank pulley nut on my 1438cc engine?

[divace73]

I'm guessing it would be the same as the others, 38mm or 1.5" socket

[Warren]

For those that need to remove the crankshaft pulley on an automatic transmission car, I did this by locking the flywheel or torque converter using a wrench on an existing bolt (I think, was 10 years ago). Wrench was then wedged against bell housing so engine did not rotate.

[124cso]

This has been covered several times over a period of as many years. The use of heat and impact /rattle guns, chain vices etc may work but are a bit brutal don't you think ?
I think the problem is that a lot of the front pulleys are put on far too tight. One book I saw says like 250 footpounds but the European books say only 80 odd footpounds. Perhaps it's the smog pumps / AC extra loads ??? surely not.
Anyway, I made up a tool to hold onto the 3 webs cast in the front of the pulley, held to the pully with gutter bolts with square nuts into the V belt space. The tool is hollow to fit a socket and short ext onto crankshaft nut. I then needed 2 very long levers, one from tool to my shoulder, they other onto socket bar handle. Then a lot of effort and grunting but it did come away without brutality. Torqued it back to 90 pounds and no probs since.

You can find pics of the tool on flickr -search pics - tool 001, tool 003 & tool 004.