I removed the door trim panels and lubricated the latches, window crank and cables. I have not put the trim back on and wanted to make sure the locks were good. They were a little stiff before so I shot some WD40 on the linkage and inner handle hardware. I did not loosen or take anything apart. Locks don't lock. Opens and closes fine, just can't lock with key.
Ok, just read a post that says driver door locks with 1/4 turn clockwise. I will guess the passenger side is 1/4 turn counter clockwise? At any rate, key turns easily counter clockwise on the driver door but NO-GO clockwise. Opposite issue on the passenger, turns easy clockwise but NO GO counter clockwise. HELP !!!!
door locks stopped working but not frozen.
- courtenay
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 1321
- Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:41 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 Spider 2000
- Location: Courtenay, BC, Canada
Re: door locks stopped working but not frozen.
Sorry, I can't help with the problem, but frankly, I'm not sure I'd worry about it. I never lock my car. It's got a soft top. I'd rather someone simply open the door to get into the thing than cut the top to do same.
Bruce Shearer
'80 Spider Fi
'10 Volvo XC70
'06 GMC 1 Ton PU
'72 Spider a long, long time ago
'80 Spider Fi
'10 Volvo XC70
'06 GMC 1 Ton PU
'72 Spider a long, long time ago
- manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Re: door locks stopped working but not frozen.
Was the door open when you tried it with the key? The receiver on the door jamb has to be pointing down in the closed position for the door mechanism to lock. Try the handle on the inside. If you press it down it locks the doors, try locking and unlocking it a few times with the interior handle, then use the key.
Re: door locks stopped working but not frozen.
I like things to work if possible. Sometimes a locked convertible will detour a thief as he does not want to be seen tearing up the top to enter the car. Some of them just go car to car trying the handle to see if it's locked. I agree if someone really wants the car, they will tear the top but I'd rather make it a little difficult than here's the keys, have at it.courtenay wrote:Sorry, I can't help with the problem, but frankly, I'm not sure I'd worry about it. I never lock my car. It's got a soft top. I'd rather someone simply open the door to get into the thing than cut the top to do same.
Re: door locks stopped working but not frozen.
Won't lock with the interior handle either. Seems the handle won't push down at all. I have a suspicion that when I replaced the door weatherstripping and lugs, the door fit may have changed enough to prevent the latch from locking. I may need to adjust the new lugs a little? Or they just need to get broken in? Not a big deal, but I like to get everything working as much as possible.manoa matt wrote:Was the door open when you tried it with the key? The receiver on the door jamb has to be pointing down in the closed position for the door mechanism to lock. Try the handle on the inside. If you press it down it locks the doors, try locking and unlocking it a few times with the interior handle, then use the key.
Re: door locks stopped working but not frozen.
Ok, I think it's the actual locks. Everything is free and no binding in any of the linkage. I bet the car never got locked much and it's just gummed up inside. Not sure how to clean it or how to get something inside it to clean it. Maybe just get a new set of locks for the doors and trunk so I will have a matching key?
- manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Re: door locks stopped working but not frozen.
Is it just one side or both driver and passenger side door locks? Usually the drivers side gets worn out first, while the passenger side is still nice and tight. Unlikely they both went out, unless due to corrosion.
The door weatherstripping can be an issue. When I replaced mine the doors sometimes didn't want to close completely unless I shut them hard. After a few weeks/month the weatherstripping compressed a bit and now the door closes with a reassuring solid sounding thud.
One issue with the door locks/interior handle is the actuating bar that connects them. On models up to 78 the bar comprised of a piece of flat bar stock while 79 and later models had an actuating bar made of stamped steel. When the interior door handle is used the bar comes into play. The earlier models due to their construction are more apt to bend out of plane and not actuate the mechanism. The later stamped rods tend to stay straight and not bend out of plane. A simple hole and a zip tie in the door sheet metal at the mid span of the rod will keep it from bending out of plane and not actuating the mechanism. However you may want to wrap the rod with some felt or peel and stick foam at that point to keep it from rattling against the door sheet metal.
The door weatherstripping can be an issue. When I replaced mine the doors sometimes didn't want to close completely unless I shut them hard. After a few weeks/month the weatherstripping compressed a bit and now the door closes with a reassuring solid sounding thud.
One issue with the door locks/interior handle is the actuating bar that connects them. On models up to 78 the bar comprised of a piece of flat bar stock while 79 and later models had an actuating bar made of stamped steel. When the interior door handle is used the bar comes into play. The earlier models due to their construction are more apt to bend out of plane and not actuate the mechanism. The later stamped rods tend to stay straight and not bend out of plane. A simple hole and a zip tie in the door sheet metal at the mid span of the rod will keep it from bending out of plane and not actuating the mechanism. However you may want to wrap the rod with some felt or peel and stick foam at that point to keep it from rattling against the door sheet metal.
Re: door locks stopped working but not frozen.
Hi Matt, sent you a couple of emails. Did you get them? Ken