Of note, you don't have to remove the break linings. I did this procedure with the caliper still attached to the car the entire time. You will lose a lot of break fluid in the process, so I suggest putting a big pan under the break area while you work to catch and retain the break fluid.
1) I got the rebuild kit from IAP. It consisted of a piston dust shield, and two o-rings.
2) Front and back breaks are very different - this applies only to the back.
3)IMPORTANT!!!! Put down the emergency break and then, get under the car and further "relax" the tension on the e-brake cable by loosening the two adjustment bolts. Really, really, "unadjust" the break.
4) Jack up the car and block other wheels. Remove wheel of interest. Remove part of the dust shield (two bolts) to get better access to the caliper.
4) Remove the 4 cotter pins from the caliper "wedges".
5) Remove the wedges - I used a hammer and a flat-head screw drives to "tap" them out.
6) Remove the caliper
so far this is just like changing the breaks (save the e-brake), no comes the trickier parts....
7) remove the e-brake cable from the lever arm that controls the piston. This is easy if you followed step 3...
The lever arm connects to a "wedge" that connects to the break piston. Note the position of the wedge - I suggest taking a picture.9) The lever arm has a small retaining clip on the end opposite the e-brake cable. Carefully pry open/remover the retaining clip. Make sure you do not deform the clip because you will need it in good shape for reassembly.
10) Remove the lever arm. I did this by using a flat head screw driver and a hammer. I again tapped the end where the retaining clip was to "drive it through" the caliper mount. When you do this, the wedge connecting the e-brake lever arm and the piston will finally fall off. You have to fully remove this lever arm from the caliper so it is important that you followed step 7.
11) At this stage I used a screw driver to "unscrew" the break piston from this plunger. Alternatively, you can collect the wedge, put it in the plunger, hold the piston with a screwdriver, and then use the wedge like a key to unscrew the plunger from the piston.
12) GO SLOW HERE: You have to remove the plunger and the piston from the caliper. The piston comes out with out a mess, but first remove the cylinder dust cover. However, the plunger has a series of washers that are stacked to act like a spring return. I just yanked the plunger out and I think the 5 or 6 washers just fell to the ground. Mistake. If you try this, remove the plunger very slowly and take note of how the washers are stacked, and make sure you put them back in exactly as they came out. Learn from my mistake...
13) Ok - everything should be fully apart. Clean up the interior of the cylinder, the plunger and the piston. Be careful not to scare anything.
14) Carefully remove the 0-ring from the piston. It is the "big" o-ring. Try to use a plastic tool to take off the original o-ring, you don't want to scratch the piston. Put on the new o-ring. I soaked all my new o-rings in break fluid prior to install.
15) Ok try this trick next. Remover the old o-ring from the plunger. It is the "small" o-ring. Rather than installing the new o-ring immediately, FIRST slip on all the spring washer over the plunger in the proper order. Slide the washers to the very back of the plunger. THEN install the new o-ring. (I installed the o-ring first, and then had to slide the washer over the o-ring. In this process, the o-ring took some abuse. If you put the washers on first, the o-ring should remain in pristine condition when it is time for final assembly.)
16) Install the plunger/washer assembly back in to the break cylinder. Then install the piston on to the plunger. You can use the plunger wedge as a key to screw things back together.
17) Now for the hard part....you have to slide the e-brake lever arm back into the caliper, getting it aligned with both the plunger wedge and getting the plunger wedge to seat properly with the plunger. It took me a long time, and various taps with a a hammer on the plunger to get everything just the right distance. I can't offer any advice except be prepared to take some time to get this done...Once you get everything in place, make sure you remember to install the retaining clip back on the end of the break lever.
18) Install the new dust shield on the cylinder.
19) Reattach the e-brake cable. If you did not loosen the cable per step 3 you will likely try for a long, frustrating time to get this reattached. Voice of experience here. But with the e-brake "unadjusted" it is a very easy process.
20) Reinstall the caliper, the caliper wedges and the cotter pins, just like changing the break pads. In fact, if you need new pads, you should change them as part of this process. I also note, that if you have never changed your breaks, you are in for some true joy. Bring a hammer and don't be shy getting the wedges back in place.
21) Reinstall the dust shield and two bolts.
22) Bleed your breaks. My car didn't have much break fluid in it when I started, but the rebuilt process results in in a lot of break fluid flowing out of the breaks.
23) Put back on your wheel. If it has a hub cap, make sure you put it on correctly, otherwise you will be posting on this board trying to buy a replacement (again the voice of experience).
24) Re-adjust your emergency break.
25) Unjack, unblock car and test drive.
What could be easier? I suggest only using a skilled Fiat mechanic if you want someone to do the job for you. Good luck and I hope this helps. Sorry if this is not fully accurate, but I am going by memory from project several weeks ago, although the nightmares are still vivid.
