Idler/Damper snapped. Any advise?

[BlackWidow]

Idler/Damper housing snapped from the frame while pulling out of the driveway this week. I'm the type that says "hey while I'm working on this I might as well do that." (Which has gotten me in trouble) Ordered a new idler, tie rod ends, and center link. Already have new shocks, brake pads and the towers are rust free. Need new control arm bushings but need more time to work on them. What else should I be looking at and any advise would be greatly appreciated? 71' Fiat 124 Spider

Dan

[So Cal Mark]

the idlers snap because they leak, then seize up from lack of lubrication. If you're getting another oil-filled unit make sure you keep it topped up.

[BlackWidow]

That's exactly what happened. Oddly just the day before I had filled it with 20w-50 the day before because it was bone dry. It had been making a creaking noise for about 2 weeks prior and was becoming very hard to steer when not in motion. Guess I didn't catch it in time. Purchased the idler that utilizes bearings instead of the oil which I'm guessing is a more reliable design.

Dan

[81SPIDERMATT]

ball joints?????

[BlackWidow]

Ball joints seemed ok and smooth turning but some of the boots are damaged. Went ahead and ordered new tie rod ends and center link. They should be here sometime tomorrow.

Dan

[81SPIDERMATT]

another thing that happend to me was the bolts holding the lower control arm needed to be replaced...one was stripped and 2 others spun....make sure and get grade 8 bolts if this is something that you end up doing

[BlackWidow]

Thanks for the info. Took a look at the control arm bolts yesterday and don't know how this happened but the thread side of one of them impacted with the arm making it impossible to remove the nut. Guessing I'm going to have to cut it off and get new ones.

Dan

[BlackWidow]

Update. Replace the idler/damper, tie rod ends, and center link yesterday. Just FYI the new idler with ball bearings come with no grease so be sure to initially remove the shaft and grease down the bearings and splines on the shaft before mounting. Also the stock bolts that hold the new idler to the frame are too short. Old idler mounting thickness is only 1/2 in. where the new one is over an inch. Didn't measure just guessing. I managed to remove all the tie rods and link with a pickle fork, PB Blaster, a torch, 2lb hammer, two budwiesers, and language you won't find in any dictionary. Pickle fork will damage the boots but that's why I was removing them so it didn't matter. I have another tie rod puller for compact cars that is similar to a two jaw puller but the jaws are fixed (Auto Zone). Doesn't work on the Fiat. The tie rod ends were new but for some reason the ends with the left handed thread were very stiff. I almost couldn't move them at first. Threw them on a soft vise and got them loose but still wasn't happy with the tension. I used my grease gun with a needle attachment and added some more. Used a 90 degree hook/pick at the top of the boot and pulled back the metal retaining ring just enough to get the needle in. Also I'd advise on changing out the sleeve clamp nuts, bolts and lock washers (I used 10.5 grade) and at least inspect your control arm bushings, kingpins (ball joints), sway bar bushings, shock tower, brake pads, rotors, brake lines, shocks and wheel bearings while your under there.

Dan