Saga continues...

[digitech]

With first one thing cropping up, then another, I was finally able to pull the head off my engine again this week. As I last related (see "new engine issues"), I had a persistent and loud tap, tap, tap upon startup. I adjusted all of my valves to book value, then, since I had aftermarket cams, to the manuf. specs. Still, tap, tap, tap. The hose to the ear indicated the noise is predominately from the #1 area and SEEMS to be topside.

Rechecked valves again before pulling the head, found exhaust #1 at .019" instead of manuf. .016" - don't know if this is enough to generate the noise I have. With all of the issues I had with my machine work, I decided to pull the head and verify nothing is hitting. And all seems to be okay - everything looks as good as when I put it together. I'll grab a couple of pics this weekend and post 'em.

So...do I press on, pull the oil pan and check out the bottom side? And how hard is it to remove the pan with the engine in the car? I assume the centerlink has to come back off, anything else?

[So Cal Mark]

dropping the pan is alot easier if the baffle has been removed from the pan, otherwise you'll need to unbolt the oil pump with the pan hanging and let the pump drop into the pan. You might consider removing the cams and checking valve guides on the suspected cylinder

[digitech]

Thanks Mark for the advice, I knew it was harder to do in the car - not sure I even want to drop the pan at this point; If I had some indication the noise/cause was in that area, I'd do it in a minute but it is definitely not a knocking but a quite noticeable taping.

The head was completely redone, with new valves, guides, etc., of course, that's not to say "Paeco!!!" did it correctly given their track record on the rest of the machine work.

What to do, what to do????????????

[RoyBatty]

Are you sure it's not an exhaust leak?
Sorry, but I gotta ask.

[majicwrench]

I'm with Mark, I would disassemble the head first. "Tap tap" usually comes from something up top. If piston has been hitting head or valves should be a visable mark. If nothing found in head, then their are other options for checking noises. Pulling pan, not sure what if anything you would find.
Keith

[narfire]

Hmm... when you shimmed the valves to get the spec'd clearances, any shims 3mm or less? The cam could contact the bucket edge at around 3 mm shim thickness.
Chris

[digitech]

Thanks all, I really appreciate the advice and insights; the thinnest shim I have in is 3.95, the thickest is 4.60. I think I'm going to take the advice and leave the bottom end alone. I'm going to pack the head off to Jon Logan at Midwest124 and have him go through it - it's top down weather here in GA and I'm tired of looking at my Spider in the garage! I'll let you know how it turns out.

On a positive note, I believe I discovered why my timing belt wouldn't track correctly - there was a small washer that had fallen down behind the tensioner bearing bracket. Don't ask me how, but I never saw it when I installed the bearing and well you know the rest....

[fiatfactory]

.

[digitech]

I agree Steve - it's got to be. I thought I was being careful during assembly/shimming but I certainly could have bent a valve, especially if they're that fragile. I have full confidence Jon will get to the bottom of it and make it right.